Swaledale, Yorkshire Dales, Summer
Swaledale is one the northernmost and remote dales of the Yorkshire Dales.
The last time we visited the valley was back in May 2016, and we only really drove through the valley. In terms of actual hiking you’d have to go back to April 2014, the last time we hiked around Swaledale. Even then, we only did a small walk from the village of Keld to Crackpot Hall and back, just under 2 miles all in all.
Nowadays Lisabet and I are a lot fitter and slimmer so we enjoyed a much longer summer hike around the valley: from Keld, up the Pennine Way on the fellside of Kisdon (499 m/1,637 ft), down into Muker, through the famous Swaledale meadows, and back up the other side of Swaledale passing Swinner Gill and Crackpot Hall to get back to Keld.
About 7 miles in all, or 18,000 steps.
The weather treated us kindly, walking conditions were great, the light was clear, and the scenes were glorious. Swaledale definitely ranks as one of my favourite Yorkshire Dales valleys.
I enjoyed using the gate as an “arrow” pointing to the distant barn.
We took a small diversion from the Pennine Way to check out Upper Kisdon Force, which was still roaring despite the River Swale being relatively dry. Can’t imagine what these falls would be like in full spate.
After visiting Upper Kisdon Force we headed up the steep path to rejoin the Pennine Way, but not before stopping to behold this magnificent limestone needle in the gorge.
The Pennine Way, my Lisabet ahead.
Looking at Swinner Gill from the fellside of Kidson. Soft light caresses the fells.
Zooming in on the deep gash in the land cut by Swinner Gill.
Pulling back shows the extent of Swinner Gill and where it sits in Swaledale, as seen from the fellside of Kidson.
The summer sun gets filtered through the clouds, with the resulting soft light gradually rolling over the fellside of Arn Gill Scar and down into the valley bottom.
A Badger-faced lamb peeping above the ferns.
Upper Swaledale gradually broadens out here towards the village of Muker.
Looking back at Swinner Gill and Rogan’s Seat (672 m/2,205 ft) above it.
A fell runner navigates the Pennine Way towards Keld.
The way to Muker.
One thing you’ll note about Swaledale: there are lots of barns dotted about the valley, far more than any other dale in the Yorkshire Dales.
The Village Store at Muker, an impossibly pretty village in Swaledale.
Amongst other things, Swaledale is known for its explosion of wildflowers in the valley bottom meadows near Muker.
I can’t tell if we were perhaps two weeks too early or too late to see the peak of wildflowers blooming in Swaledale. Still gorgeous regardless.
Lisabet’s hair mesmerizes me.
Families and hikers take a rest beside the mouth of Swinner Gill
A highly excitable child clambers across the beck of Swinner Gill.
A lot of industry occurred in Swaledale during the 19th century, particularly lead mining. The fells around the valley are dotted with scars attesting to the industrial heritage of this area. It’s also apparent here at Swinner Gill, where you can find the ruins of a mining hut right near this waterfall. I wonder if the water flowing down this ravine was once used to power industry.
The ruins in question.
From Swinner Gill we made our way back to Keld. But I had to stop here for a shot of this magnificent view back towards Black Hill (509 m/1,669 ft) on the left and Kisdon on the right..
To get back to Keld the path takes you steeply down the fellside towards the river. Along the way you pass Catrake Force, pictured.
It’s a gorgeous setting. A true Yorkshire summer paradise.
The bottom of Catrake Force where it joins the River Swale into a deep gorge.
To my mind this is the quintessential Swaledale scene. Swaledale sheep grazing, grey barns as far as the eye can see, the curves of the valley, the fields neatly segmented by drystone walls, this scene has it all. Shot from Cloggerby Rigg near Thwaite.