Isle of Arran, Scotland, Autumn 2017
Here’s one from the archives.
Back in September/October 2017, Lisabet and I took a 2-week holiday and split it into two. The first week was spent around the coast of the Scottish Borders, centred around Cove Harbour. The second week we crossed Scotland east to west and took a ferry over to the Isle of Arran.
It was our first, and only, time on this island, and we instantly fell in love.
Arran is often referred to in literature as “Scotland in miniature”, as the island can be split into the lowlands and highlands, much like mainland Scotland.
The Isle of Arran is well-known for many things. Of note, it’s home to one of the most recognisable mountains in Scotland, Cir Mhòr (799 m/2,621 ft, meaning “the big comb”). Arran was also where, in 1787, geologist James Hutton found his first “unconformity”. This provided evidence for his Plutonist geological theories and gave him a better idea about the age of the Earth.
We spent a solid week exploring and getting to know as much of the island as possible. I know personally I’d love to go back.
All photos shot on my camera at the time, which was a Sigma dp0 Quattro with built-in 14mm f/4.0 lens. I utilised a variety of graduated neutral density filters plus a polariser to control exposures. Developed using one of RNI’s Kodachrome film profiles.
On the first afternoon/evening on the island after crossing via the ferry, we went for a wander around Merkland Point, near Corrie on the east coast of Arran. I had previously learned about the weird and wonderful geology and rock formations on this piece of coastline, and I was not disappointed.
I loved the maze of patterns created by the grass and rock pools at Merkland Point. I framed this composition to fully fill up the frame with these patterns, set against Holy Island in the distance. We enjoyed a gentle sunset that evening, full of pastel pinks.
Some of the boulders around Merkland Point were covered in the most vivid moss and lichen I’ve ever seen. Truly otherworldly.
A closer composition of some of the moss and lichen found on the boulders around Merkland Point.
The next day we explored Arran’s southern coastline around Kildonan. This is another area you should check out if you’re into strange rocks (and are a bit of geek, like me). In the distance you can just make out Pladda, an uninhabited island south of Arran with its own automated lighthouse. Even further behind you might barely be able to see the pointy profile of Ailsa Crag, another uninhabited island in the Firth of Clyde.
I remember it was an incredibly blustery day. These were the days when I shot on a tripod all the time, and I remember having to brace myself against the tripod in order to hold it still enough for these exposures.
When we ventured back northwards along the southeastern coast of Arran, we stopped at Whiting Bay. There was a walk we knew of that took you to see a rather splendid waterfall. After a fairly strenuous hike, we finally arrived at the viewing point and were absolutely floored by the sight of one of the largest British waterfalls I’ve ever seen. This is Glenashdale Falls, dropping in two stages by around 140 ft. Even with a 14mm lens, I had to shoot three landscape images and stitch them top to bottom in order to fully show the scale of waterfall. Crazy.
We did have to contend with a full day, maybe two, of non-stop rain. But we ventured whenever we could spot gaps in the downpour. This is a composition from the spit of land that protrudes into Loch Ranza, northwest Arran. The hill featured in the centre is Tòrr Nead an Eoin (325 m/1,066 ft, meaning “crag of birds nests”)
One of the finest compositions I managed to nail in my time on the island. This is North Glen Sannox, looking towards the back of Cir Mhòr and Caisteal Abhail (859 m/2,818 ft, meaning “stronghold of the ptarmigan”). Our hike up this valley was frequently interrupted by passing squalls, but it was so windy that we knew we just had to wait it out and the rain would quickly move on.
Further down the foot of North Glen Sannox I nabbed this simple composition of the cascades of North Sannox Burn, with Sail an Im (508 m/1,666 ft) rising in the distance.
Near the start of the walk I took this composition which showcased some of the cascades and vivid rocks of North Sannox Burn.
Another location on our Arran “bucket list” was the Machrie Moor Stone Circles. These are a collection of six prehistoric stone circles; some made from boulders, others from tall sandstone pillars. They’ve been carbon dated to around 2030 BCE, making them around 4,000-years old.
When we arrived some stormy clouds moved over the moorland in front us. This unfortunately blocked our view of the mountains, but more than made up for it with some incredibly vivid rainbows! I reached an emotional state of 50% panic and 50% ecstasy, running around the stone circles trying to shoot as many meaningful compositions as possible whilst the rainbow was still visible.
One of the last days of our week on Arran, conditions stayed dry enough to attempt a circuit around Glen Rosa, one of the main valleys in Arran. I had researched locations and compositions in this valley for years, looking for shots towards the iconic Cir Mhòr. Ultimately, I didn’t get the actual photos I was after, especially because the valley was ridiculously muddy and difficult to walk. But this photo is OK.
Another attempt at a composition featuring Cir Mhòr and some of the gorgeous cascades and pools of Glenrosa Water.
I consider my work of Arran unfinished, and very much look forward to revisiting the island once again with better eyes, better gear, and a fitter body.