Ennerdale, Lake District, Winter
Compared to Buttermere’s clear blue skies, Ennerdale could not have been more different.
Compared to Buttermere’s clear blue skies, Ennerdale could not have been more different.
I think the last time we were at Ennerdale was in April 2017. Goodness. That’s coming on to 5 years now. It’s one of my favourite places in the Lake District, with a distinctly unique “vibe” compared to any other area in the National Park.
Ennerdale is a long valley by Lake District standards, measuring around 10-miles long. There are no settlements here, save for the Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale YHA, and Black Sail Hut right at the head. Ennerdale Water sits at the foot of the dale, offering views all the way down the valley towards some of the Lake District’s biggest peaks: Great Gable, Steeple, and (one of my favourites) Pillar.
In 2003 the major landowners of the valley—United Utilities, the National Trust, and the Forestry Commission—joined forces to create the Rewilding Ennerdale partnership and project. The project’s stated goal is:
“[…]to allow the evolution of Ennerdale as a wild valley for the benefit of people, relying more on natural processes to shape its landscape and ecology.”
Ennerdale does have a massively different feel compared to the rest of the Lake District. It feels more Scottish in a way.
Although on this hike we didn’t see much of the sun, the low clouds did interact with the high fells beautifully, creating gallons of drama for us to photograph.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images made 95% in-camera using Øyvind Nordhagen’s “Modern Negative” Fujifilm recipe.
Following the road from the car park, the views open up and reveal the huge Ennerdale fells tussling with the clouds above.
Across Ennerdale Water, Crag Fell slopes down to an abrupt toe known as Angler Crag, before plunging into the deep lake.
This was the most sun we saw all day. Worth it though. Caw Fell, Haycock, and Scoat Fell fight with the clouds.
A closer view of Angler Crag. It is technically possible to complete a circular hike around Ennerdale Water, but the difficulty is in navigating around this awkward crag.
The cloud cover starts to lift a little bit, with Steeple’s shadow suggesting an appearance.
Lots of trees near the lake shore are covered in thick carpets of moss. Beautifully eldritch.
Beautiful light highlights the reaching arms of this moss-covered tree.
Near the Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre, the forest cover recedes a little and we get out first glimpse of the mighty Pillar. My excitement levels build.
We followed the winding forest track towards Middle Bridge, which cross the River Liza. This would signal our way back down the other side of the valley. Pillar gets closer…
Swirling clouds wrestle with the summit of Pillar.
Like a lot of the Lake District, Storm Arwen took casualties in Ennerdale too.
These trees managed to survive…
…but these two giants didn’t, completely uprooted and tossed aside by the powerful winds of Storm Arwen. Incredible.
Middle Bridge offers beautiful views looking all the way down the rest of Ennerdale.
The River Liza tumbles down the valley here in a series of cascades and falls, each with its own sublime turquoise and azure plunge pools. The water clarity was astonishing.
We crossed the Liza via Middle Bridge, and took the official Liza Trail back towards the foot of Ennerdale. But not without another look back at the crystal clear river and its falls.
Navigating the Liza Trail alongside the river back to the Forest path was tricky, given that several chunks of it had been washed away by Storm Arwen. But views like this from the forest trail made up for it.
Ancient sheep enclosures have long been left to be reclaimed by nature.
Ennerdale Forest, growing taller everywhere.
Buttermere, Lake District, Winter
It’s time for a mini-break.
It’s time for a mini-break.
We were planning for a Christmas break away in Scotland. But after the emergence and subsequent rise of the SARS-CoV-2-Omicron variant, we decided to cancel it.
One month on, with the situation more clear—and Lisabet transitioning between jobs—we decided to book a few days off and enjoy a long weekend around West Cumbria. We’ll be based near Cockermouth, but on the way we decided to take the scenic route via the Newlands Pass and into Buttermere. A walk around Buttermere’s gorgeous lake was in order.
And what a decision that was! We were greeted with clear blue skies, no wind, gorgeous light, and crystal-clear reflections. A fantastic way to start out mini-break.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images 95% made in-camera, finished for web in Pixelmator and Darkroom. I used Øyvind Nordhagen’s Modern Negative Fujifilm recipe.
The way down into Buttermere after navigating the beautiful Newlands Pass. With the High Stile range in view, excitement levels build.
Honestly, some church builders have a wonderful sense of setting. This is St. James’ Church in Buttermere. The original chapel was built in 1507, with the more modern construction dating from 1840 and restored in 1930.
First thing’s first, we needed to get down to the shores of Buttermere. But when we did, goodness me… I mean, look at it!
From Buttermere’s southern corner, the views back across the lake to the Grasmoor and Newlands fells were astounding.
Looking down Lorton Vale towards Mellbreak, the main fell that overlooks Crummock Water.
Directly across Buttermere, the Robinson fell crags of High Snockrigg and Goat Crag are illuminated in the late-morning wintersun.
Directly above us, the High Stile range looms over our heads.
Buttermere is ringed by so many distinctive fells, but arguably the one that commands your attention the most is Fleetwith Pike, seen here perfectly reflected in Buttermere’s waters.
I decided to play around with some compositions using my ultra-wide 9mm lens.
The path starts to open up as we near the edge of Burtness Woods directly beneath the High Stile range.
The way ahead, with Fleetwith Pike glowing like one of the Pyramids of Giza.
Across the water from Buttermere’s southwestern shore, Hassness Country House is a veritable beacon in the low wintersun.
The point where we turn away from Fleetwith Pike, towards Buttermere’s northeastern side.
The outflow of Warnscales Beck, looking back towards the Crummock Water fells.
High Crag looming above the Buttermere trail. Though not busy, there were a fair few folk wandering around various parts of the trail with us.
At Gatesgarth Farm, the trail becomes the road around the lake, before eventually rejoining the footpath around the northern shore of Buttermere. Before turning away, I get another look at beautiful Fleetwith Pike.
Couldn’t miss the opportunity to nab a composition of this delightful farm cottage set against the High Stile range.
From Buttermere’s northeastern side, the profile of the High Stile range becomes more apparent. There are three main peaks: High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike.
One of my favourite compositions and views to be found around Buttermere.
A lone tree along the northeastern shore of Buttermere catches the light, a contrast against the deep shadows of the High Stile range.
The shingle beach of Hassness Crag Wood offered a lovely leading line towards Mellbreak in the distance.
A field of Herdwick, happily grazing underneath the craggy wall of the Robinson/Hindscarth Fells.
A clear view of Mellbreak and its reflection.
In order to carry on walking around the northern shore of Buttermere, you need to navigate through Hassness Tunnel.
Popping out of the tunnel, the view back towards Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks was exquisite.
Time for my ultra-wide lens to nab some compositions of the High Stile range, with the sun setting behind them.
With previous cameras and lenses, I was never able to get a good shot of all three of High Stiles’ peaks. Now, with my 9mm ultra-wide, I was able to get all three of them in and more!
My 55mm was able to zoom right in and capture some of the gorgeous detail on Mellbreak.
One last look at Fleetwith Pike in the sunset light.
What a gorgeous day.
Levens Hall Deer Park, Cumbria, Winter
I hope you like trees.
I hope you like trees.
With other duties and tasks that needed to be completed today, we decided on a lovely 10,000-step walk around the Levens Hall Deer Park. The park was landscaped some 300-odd years ago, around the same time as the gardens of the historic Levens Hall. As such, many of the trees in the park are centuries old and, unfortunately, some of them have suffered after Storm Arwen’s 100mph winds.
Levens Hall Deer Park is home to Black Fallow Deer and a herd of rare-breed Bagot goats. Whilst we didn’t see any of the distinctive goats, we did manage to spot some of the deer, happily chilling and grazing in the grounds.
With the trees devoid of leaves, there were opportunities to focus more on the shape and texture of each tree instead. With the sun out, we got some delicious golden side lighting, which I happily took advantage of with some more unusual close-up compositions.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images made 95% in-camera using Øyvind Nordhagen’s Modern Negative Fujifilm recipe, finished in Pixelmator and Darkroom.
The main lay-by near the park was already full, so we had to drive further up the A6 to find the second, smaller, lay-by. Not a problem, you just follow the mossy and slippery path all the way to park entrance.
A beautiful iron-wrought gate attached to some of the cottages near the park.
Once in the park, it was already shaping up to be a beautiful day.
With their leaves gone, it felt to celebrate the overall shape and “personality” of each tree.
Some of them still appear to have remnants of their autumn foliage on display.
One of many Storm Arwen casualties around the park.
It was nice to see families around enjoying the park too.
It blows my mind to think of the forces involved to rip a strong-looking tree like this in half. What a storm…
If some of the ancient trees suffered, then the surrounding dry stone walls had no chance.
These cottages must have some smashing views of the Deer Park and perhaps beyond the Morecambe Bay.
A tree stump being consumed by fungi provided me with some delightful textures to play with.
The extended loop of the circular park walk involves walking up to Force Falls, crossing the bridge over the river, and following the road back into the other side of the park. I weren’t complaining; Force Falls is always stunning.
The southeastern side of Levens Hall Deer Park was already giving us some beautifully gnarly trees to gawp at.
My lovely Lisabet, in her natural element.
This cottage on returning to the Deer Park caught my eye. Beautifully idyllic, and the light was the cherry on top.
So beautiful. Practically a sculpture in its own right
One of the distinctive aspects of Levens Hall Deer Park is “the Avenue”, which is lined with a variety of ancient trees, particularly oak. Near Park End cottage, a separate branch of the avenue had its own otherworldly collection of trees.
One of my favourite photos from the whole shoot. I’ll probably use this as a phone wallpaper.
I mean, just check out those textures…
After capturing some close-up compositions on my 23mm and 55mm, it was time to whack on the ultra-wide 9mm to really play with those textures, light, and angles.
I really dig this composition, I must say.
Some of the twists and knots in these trees were almost impossibly otherworldly and magical..
It’s not often I do close-up compositions using my ultra-wide lens, but the texture on this tree just called for it.
Anyone else see something of H. R. Giger’s work or style in this tree?
Onwards through the Oak Avenue, with a Storm Arwen casualty lying across. Can’t imagine how old that tree was…
I love the combination of textures here, from whirling and smooth to stubbly and geometric.
The base and roots of another tree gave me Sleepy Hollow vibes.
My lovely Lisabet, being the Wood Elf that she is, inside a hollow tree.
Looking back down the Oak Avenue we sauntered up, past another destroyed tree.
Nearing the end of our walk, this cluster of trees—all seemingly “looking” in the same direction—caught my eye.
Sometimes you just have to shoot chaos, and let someone else’s brain find something they can point to.
The day was a joy of wonderful soft light and glorious eldritch textures.
More days like this, please.