Easedale, Lake District, Autumn
And just like that, it starts to feel like winter.
And just like that, it starts to feel like winter.
This past weekend, temperatures suddenly plunged 5–8°C, bringing in clear and frosty days with freezing cold nights. On the Sunday, a crystal clear blue-sky day greeted us, so we donned our gloves and hats and made our way into the Lake District. Our goal: a lovely autumnal hike from Grasmere, up to Easedale Tarn via Sourmilk Ghyll, and back down into Far Easedale before returning to Grasmere.
A good 10km hike with some solid ascension.
The last of the autumn colours were evident in the rust-coloured bracken and the leaves littering the footpaths. Just one of those days where it feels great to be outside and alive.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using two of my prime lenses: my Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images lightly developed in Lightroom from Classic Chrome RAW files, finished in Affinity Photo.
It doesn’t take long before a clear view of Helm Crag (405 m/1,329 ft) comes into view.
The trail takes us into Easedale where the arresting sight of Sourmilk Ghyll towered by Tarn Crag (551 m/1,808 ft) and High Raise (762 m/2,500 ft) comes into view.
To our right are the slopes of Helm Crag. Though not a tall fell by Lake District standards, it is deceptively steep.
Across the beck, chunky Herdwick tups graze in the fields below Helm Crag.
Further along the trail, another field beneath Helm Crag was home to some Herdwick lambs with their darker fleeces.
The first goal of the day: Sourmilk Ghyll, with Ecton Crag rising protectively above it.
The waterfalls are an impressive sight. Sourmilk Ghyll was probably named for its bright white water contrasted against the dark ravine it tumbles down.
Above and beyond the falls, the footpath climbs to Easedale Tarn with the imposing face of Tarn Crag directly above it.
Tarn Crag and Slapestone Edge plunge directly into the deep, dark, and cold waters of Easedale Tarn. Fancy a swim?
The view looking back the way we came is no less impressive, taking in Helm Crag, Heron Pike (612 m/2,008 ft), Great Rigg (766 m/2,513 ft), and Fairfield (873 m/2,864 ft).
Adventurous hikers have the option of taking the path all the way around Easedale Tarn and up towards Codale Tarn on the way to High Raise. For us, we crossed the beck flowing out of Easedale Tarn and followed the less-travelled path towards Far Easedale.
One or two clouds joined us on our hike, casting their shadows across Cockly Crag and Greathead Crag.
Look back at the loosely pitched footpath we took from Easedale Tarn.
As the path started to descend down into Far Easedale, more clouds darkened the fellside of Gibson Knott.
My lovely Lisabet leading the way, with the sun drowning the fells in warm light.
Our destination is the valley bottom of Far Easedale, directly underneath Gibson Knott and Horn Crag, at Stythwaite Steps.
To the east, a more slender profile of Helm Crag can be seen. We could not have asked for better light conditions on this day.
The valley bottom at Far Easedale, following the line of Far Easedale Gill towards Pike of Carrs. Time for lunch!
Post-lunch, we followed the craggy trail east back towards Grasmere. This giant boulder above us gained our interest, largely for the addition of a drystone wall perched on top of it!
The Far Easedale path back to Grasmere is definitely more rough and wild, but that just made for more interesting scenes.
Gradually, the path increases in quality as it navigates around giant boulders and ancient barns.
A true Lake District scene: Herdwick sheep and the fells.
This lovely lady had no issues at all posing for us as we snapped away.
Looking back, beyond the ancient Brimmer Head Farm to the waterfall and Easedale fells.
Nearing Grasmere, views of Heron Pike and Rydal Fell soon come into view. Gotta love this time of year for the low angles of light.
Across Broadgate Meadows, the peak of Seat Sandal is darkened by the clouds above. Back to the car park we go.
Easedale, Lake District, Spring
It’s been quite a few years since we’ve been to Easedale.
It’s been quite a few years since we’ve been to Easedale.
In fact, looking through my archives, it’s been four years and a month. Today, Lisabet and I decided we were due for a revisit.
Easedale is a small valley to the northwest of Grasmere village. There are one or two country houses, plus a couple of farms, but arguably its main feature is the waterfall at its head: Sourmilk Gill. This waterfall drops 70-metres as several cascades in between the two towers of Brinhow Crag and Elton Crag. From a distance, with the brilliant white water set against the dark rocks, it’s easy to see why the waterfall has been named such.
Beyond Sourmilk Gill one can extend the walk further to the source of the gill, Easdale Tarn, a picturesque mountain lake dominated by the looming face of Tarn Crag.
We took the standard “tourist” route through Easedale and up alongside Sourmilk Gill towards Easedale Tarn. After a snack, we crossed the gill and followed the boggy path to Stythwaite Steps, the entrance to the floor of the Far Easdale valley. I’d personally never been here before and was delighted by the sights. It’s hard to ignore the bold face of Horn Crag rising above the valley. We then followed the track southwest, rejoining Easedale and back into Grasmere.
All in all a beautiful walk, helped with another lovely day of weather.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. All developed using RNI’s Kodachrome film profiles.
Picturesque Grasmere village. I never tire of the scene looking down Broadgate towards Heron Pike (612 m/2,008 ft).
Only in the countryside…
You bet we bought some of Maisie’s flapjacks. Delicious they were, too. Thank you, Maisie!
As we climb up the path towards Sourmilk Gill, the views over to the Fairfield fells reveal themselves.
The milky-white waters of Sourmilk Gill, with Elton Crag looming above like a giant knuckly first punching defiantly into the sky.
Getting as close to the plunge pool as I dare, with my lovely Lisabet above.
One of my favourite scenes around Grasmere, following the milky-white waters as they tumble down towards Easedale.
Beyond the falls we followed the path up to Easdale Tarn. And though the tarn is pretty, the views back towards Helm Crag and the Fairfield fells is equally wonderful.
The upper section of Sourmilk Gill as it gently meanders to where it will ultimately tumble down to Easedale.
Easedale Tarn, with Tarn Crag’s (551 m/1,808 ft) rounded face high above.
A rather beautiful wind-swept tree leaning away from the waters of Easdale Tarn and Tarn Crag above.
After writing off venturing further towards another tarn above, known as Coledale Tarn, we head back towards the outflow of Easedale Tarn and cross the gill.
One last look back at the bulky head of Tarn Crag.
After carefully navigating the boggy path on the northern side of Sourmilk Gill, we follow the steps down to Far Easedale, known as Stythwaite Steps.
At the floor of the Far Easedale valley, I located a couple of massive boulders I found interesting. I lined up some compositions involving their wonderful colours, textures, and patterns.
Far Easedale. A beautiful valley, with Horn Crag demanding your attention.
“Ian, look! A winding drystone wall.” Lisabet knows me too well.
Brimmer Head Farm. This is referenced on the OS Map in an old-style Blackletter typeface, indicating historical interest. Turns out that there’s a building in the farm that dates back to 1574, reputedly the oldest house in Grasmere.
Another look back at Sourmilk Gill as the path out of Far Easedale rejoins Easedale near the Lancrigg Hotel.
Lisabet taking in the sights before we head down the lane.
Towards the end of our hike the cloud base had lifted off the higher fells above Grasmere, revealing their comely shapes.
Heron Pike above the village, catching some rays. Sheep peacefully graze in the common alongside Broadgate. A day that makes you feel truly grateful.