Kinlochleven, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter
Where to go on the final day of our week long Scottish Highlands getaway?
Where to go on the final day of our week long Scottish Highlands getaway?
We had a few options, but ultimately settled on an area we’d only visited once, the very first time we explored Glencoe in Autumn 2014: Kinlochleven.
Kinlochleven is a small village situated at the eastern end of Loch Leven and completely surrounded by massive mountains. The Loch Leven valley feels more like a Norwegian fjord; a small ribbon lake with mountains rising sheer from the water.
Last time we visited, we barely scratched the service of what there was to offer, largely because of how unfit I was. That situation is a bit different these days, so we embarked on a more more strenuous and adventurous hike.
It were glorious. A great day to end the week.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–3.8 zoom lenses. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed using RNI Films’ Kodachrome film profiles, finalised in Affinity Photo 2 for iPad.
Kinlochleven, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
One aspect of the Kinlochleven area we completely missed all those years ago was a large and very accessible waterfall. So this was the first thing to tick off the list. This is Grey Mare’s Tail, which plunges nearly 50m in a single drop. This scene, with a tiny Lisabet gazing upon the falls, put me in mind of some of the photographs I’ve seen of some of the Yosemite waterfalls.
After gingerly picking our way around the falls, it was time to begin the steep ascent up the flanks of Leachd na h-Aire to seek views of the loch and the mountains above it. It didn’t take long before we could see the magnificent shape of the Pap of Glencoe above the loch like a wizard’s hat.
Zooming in for a tighter composition of the Pap, using some of these lovely Scottish pines to the frame the scene.
After a slight wrong turn we used this deviation to our advantage by climbing up onto a small knoll that offered this spectacularly clear view of Loch Leven and her mountains. What a sight. The Pap of Glencoe to the left, and Beinn na Caillich on the right.
A small cluster of Scots pines provide a nice compositional aid, pointing upwards to the magnificent Pap of Glencoe. As the day went on, the light got better and better.
Our goal was to locate the now abandoned Mamore Lodge hotel, which has apparently been left to rot for a decade or so now. Along the way, I snapped one more composition of the Pap.
We finally arrived at the former hotel, and scanned around its perimeter. The lodge was originally built in 1903 for Capt. Frank Bibby, who made his fortune in the Liverpool shipping industry. The aluminium works company, whom essentially created the village Kinlochleven, apparently built the lodge in return for the grant of additional land to house workers back down in the village. Sad to see this.
From the abandoned Mamore Lodge, we were able to locate the small road and follow it all the way back down to the loch, happily snapping compositions along the way.
Beinn na Caillich catching some golden wintersun as we followed the winding road down to the loch shore.
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Glenfinnan, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter
We were exceptionally fortunate with the Scottish Highland weather.
We were exceptionally fortunate with the Scottish Highland weather.
Although conditions were consistently near the freezing point, we enjoyed days of clear light and skies. The only day that wasn’t the case was when we hiked around Glenfinnan.
Glenfinnan is a place of great natural beauty as well as historical significance. It was here in 1745 that the Jacobite rising began. Prince Charles Edward Stuart (popularly known as “Bonnie Prince Charlie”) raised his standard here on the shores of Loch Shiel in the valley, in the hopes of retaking the British throne for his father, James Francis Edward Stuart.
Glenfinnan is also home to the 792 ft curve of Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous in recent times for its inclusion in the Harry Potter films where the Hogwarts Express is seen crossing the viaduct in several of the films.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–3.8 zoom and Laowa 9mm f2.8 lenses. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed using RNI Films’ Kodachrome film profiles, and finalised using Affinity Photo 2 for iPad.
Glenfinnan, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
Our goal for the day was to hike the Viaduct Trail. As a circular route, you can start at practically any point. In our case, we began from the picturesque Glenfinnan railway station.
The route leaves the railway station via the woodland beneath it, and starts climbing back up the mountainside towards the viaduct. Here, Beinn an Tuim (810m/2,657ft) was catching a slither of morning winter light.
There are several points along the trail specifically constructed for hikers to enjoy some staggering views. When we arrived, Sgùrr Ghiubhsachain (849m/2,785ft) was being gently bathed in the morning’s rare light show.
Our first glimpse of the magnificent Glenfinnan Viaduct, as it curves its way beneath Mam a’ Chreagain.
We followed the trail down the mountainside for a closer look at the Viaduct. It was constructed between 1897 and 1898 by Sir Robert McAlpine. Built entirely out of concrete, it comprises 21 arches with spans of 49ft and reaches 100ft above the valley.
We came off the main trail to seek alternative viewpoints of the valley and the viaduct. Our reward was this fantastic criss-crossing view all the way up the Glen Finnan valley, with light scanning across the land.
This was the view I was after. The beautiful curve of the viaduct and Loch Shiel’s magnificent mountain backdrop in the distance. This image is made of 5 or 6 vertical shots stitched together to create this panorama.
Down at the shores of Loch Shiel stands the Glenfinnan Monument, erected 70 years after the failed Jacobite Rising of 1745. Atop the monument stands the Unknown Highlander.
Above the loch, the Church of St. Mary & Saint Finnan enjoys a fantastic vantage point of the loch and its mountains.
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Glen Nevis, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter
The grandest valley beneath the tallest mountain.
The grandest valley beneath the tallest mountain.
The last time we visited Glen Nevis was way back in Autumn 2014, which was our very first time in the Glencoe/Lochaber area. This was in the prime of my HDR days.
Almost 10-years on, we returned with greater fitness and better vision. We elected to take the valley bottom riverside walk from the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre all the way to Polldubh falls and back. A solid 12–13km hike.
The section from the visitor centre to Polldubh falls was definitely not fun in places; the trail often became indistinct, with areas of sludgy bog and slippery mud. Nevertheless, the views were simply astounding wherever you looked, and we were blessed once again with glorious weather.
Photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–3.8 zoom and Laowa 9mm f2.8 ultra-wide lenses. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed using RNI Films’ Kodachrome film profiles, and finalised in Affinity Photo 2 for iPad.
Glen Nevis, Lochaber, Scotland, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
A relatively new and modern bridge crosses the River Nevis from the visitor centre and leads you along the riverside trail. A lot of people take this route to begin their ascent up all 1,345 m (4,413 ft) of Ben Nevis.
Following the riverside trail, the view down the glen opens up and reveals the massive shape of Sgùrr a’ Mhàim (1,099 m/3,606 ft). Its name means “rocky peak of the rounded hill”.
Despite the bright winter sun, it was still cold enough in the shade to freeze the water running down the valley sides.
After navigating a meander in the river, the neighbour of Sgùrr a’ Mhàim becomes visible: Stob Bàn (999 m/3,278 ft), which means “white peak”.
Nearing Polldubh falls, the path climbs up and away from the river. Doing so revealed this delightful composition towards Sgùrr a’ Mhàim, which I had to nab.
An abandoned, white-washed cottage. I don’t know if it’s used as a mountain bothy now or not.
Polldubh falls, with upper Glen Nevis in the distance. Quite an arresting sight, and developing a powerful waterfall.
Sgùrr a’ Mhàim is often mistaken to have snow around its peak. In fact, it’s usually white quartz you can see, which gives the mountain its lighter capped colour.
Heading back up the glen from the falls, the craggy shoulders of Meall an t-Suidhe (711 m/2,333 ft) are drenched in late afternoon winter sun.
I couldn’t resist this road shot featuring the two towering giants at the head of the glen. The road was quiet enough to allow us to walk alongside it all the way back to the visitor centre.
One last look back at Sgùrr a’ Mhàim before returning the visitor centre.
A challenging walk, in places, but a grand experience nevertheless.