day hikes Ian Cylkowski day hikes Ian Cylkowski

Keswick–Threlkeld Railway, Lake District, Winter

And now for something completely different.

And now for something completely different.

After yesterday’s thrilling circular hike around the gorgeous and epic Malhamdale, today we embarked on something a little more tourist-friendly and flat: the Keswick–Threlkeld Railway walk.

The 5km walk follows the route of the old Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway from Keswick to Threlkeld. It was constructed in 1864 with the goal of connecting the town of Cockermouth with the London and North Western Railway (LNWR) West Coast Main Line at Penrith. It closed to passengers and business in the 1960s and 1970s.

Much of the trail was badly damaged or totally destroyed by Storm Desmond in December 2015. Major restoration work was undertaken and the trail was upgraded and reopened in December 2020.

Lisabet and I met met up with me Dad near the start of the trail at Keswick, and followed the route all the way to Threlkeld and back, a good 6.2 miles and 17,000 steps later.

We were blessed with lifting hill fog, resulting in some incredible scenes of clouds whipping around the shoulders of nearby fells Lonscale Fell, Blencathra, and even some of the Helvellyn fells.

This route will definitely be one to revisit in Spring and Summer.

All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images made in-camera, with no additional editing, using Øyvind Nordhagen‘s Overcast Fujifilm recipe.

The Keswick Hotel, which also seems to come with its own garage. At least, it used to.

The aforementioned Keswick Hotel Garage.

The Keswick–Threlkeld Railway trail starts near Keswick Leisure Centre, alongside the old station. I nabbed a sneaky shot of me Dad.

It wasn’t long before the trail started offering some lovely views along the River Greta towards the fells above Keswick. The main fell pictured here is a favourite of ours, Latrigg.

Where possible the Lake District National Park have tried to save and restore as many of the old Victorian bridges and tunnels as possible.

Near the “big” tunnel there’s a little commemorative sculpture, erected to celebrate the National Cycle Route and the Coast to Coast trail.

Into the “big” tunnel we go…

Again, beautifully preserved Victorian engineering, now with the added convenience of modern lighting and smooth, durable tarmac.

On the other side of the tunnel, panoramic views of the River Greta and Latrigg open up.

Despite being in winter, it was lovely to still see some colour about.

One of many of the newer bridges that criss-cross the winding River Greta.

Evidence of Storm Desmond, which scoured the river banks clean. You can still the level that river came up to during the storm. Land slips ahoy.

A nice little holiday village, Low Briery, alongside the River Greta.

The trees now denuded of their leafy vegetation, line the river and serve as a leading line towards Latrigg.

Onwards to the next bridge. There were plenty of other people around enjoying this trail. It was a good job we got started nice and early.

The next bridge to cross the River Greta. The Greta Gorge flattens out at this point, providing “in-bye” land for nearby hill farmers to use for their grazing flocks of sheep.

I wanted to play with lines and angles provided by this bridge, so I snapped on my ultra-wide 9mm lens for some fun compositions.

Not a bad spot for a bit of lunch.

The gorge created of the River Greta flattens out here, opening more perspectives of the Latrigg fells above.

To the north, the clouds were starting to lift from mighty Blencathra.

A solitary tree has survived erosion and storms against all the odds, and stands proudly in the middle of the river.

The excitement levels rise as we catch our first glimpse of Blencathra’s jagged peaks.

Additionally, to the east, the morning hill fog was wrestling with the crags of Clough Head, part of the Helvellyn range.

Beyond Latrigg, the crags of Lonscale, too, were freeing themselves of the morning’s mist.

The shoulder of Lonscale Fell high above the Greta Gorge.

Another relic of Victorian engineering, a small tunnel blasted through the crag leading to Rawsome’s Bridge.

Near Threlkeld, lots of trees were covered in beautiful and vibrant moss as the gorge walls closed in.

The end of the trail. Beyond the A66, Clough Head provides a dramatic backdrop as it tussles with the clearing fog and mist.

Blencathra’s craggy and jagged peaks, now nearly clear of morning mist.

Dad leads the way back to Keswick, happily snapping away.

There’s something wonderfully eldritch about wintery trees covered in moss.

Quite happy with this candid snap of me Dad.

Lonscale Fell again, now apparently losing its battle against the sky.

Blease Fell below Blencathra, and a band of mist clinging to its shoulder.

At around lunchtime, the sun finally broke through the thick cloud cover and illuminated these trees in golden light.

Overall, I can heartily recommend this trail. I look forward to returning in the spring and summer, when there’s more wildlife and flora about.

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day hikes Ian Cylkowski day hikes Ian Cylkowski

Walla Crag, Lake District, Autumn

Autumn has arrived.

Autumn has arrived.

The “life” from all the verdant vegetation is starting to wane, the ferns are turning rust-hued, and the leaves are beginning to drop. Autumn’s here, and I cannot wait for those autumnal colours.

Whilst we wait, we decided today on a venture up a relatively small fell that we’ve never tried before: Walla Crag (379 m/1,243 ft).

At “only” 379 m tall it’s definitely one of the smaller fells, especially when compared to some of the giants in the area such as Skiddaw (931 m/3,054 ft) and Blencathra (868 m/2,848 ft). Nevertheless, what it lacks in height it makes up for in the jaw-dropping views it offers from its summit.

All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Developed using RNI Films’ Kodak Ektar 100 profile.

Not far along the trail and already the views really open up. A couple enjoy a picnic in the sun with the backdrop of the Helvellyn fells behind them.

A row of Roman trees, Sorbus aucuparia, filled with their fruit frame the trail looking back to Blencathra in the distance.

The trail starts rising, offering up views looking back towards the likes of Lonscale Fell (715 m/2,346 ft).

By now the full profile of Skiddaw, its fells, and the smooth profile of Latrigg are fully exposed. It’s turning out to be a crackin’ day.

Plenty of other fell walkers were making their way up and down the trail. To the left in the distance is the magnificent slopes and peaks of Blencathra.

Skiddaw’s multi-peak shape looms of the bonny town of Keswick.

Skiddaw’s multi-peak shape looms of the bonny town of Keswick.

On our way up, the views towards the Derwentwater Fells, too, soon open up and our sense of anticipation grows.

Rowan trees and their vivid berries frame the Derwentwater fells on a somewhat hazy day.

Another lovely aspect to Walla Crag’s environment is the sheer abundance of pink heather everywhere.

The water level at Derwentwater is ridiculously low. New gravelly islands are reappearing and existing ones are gaining new shores.

It soon becomes apparent how much of a drop there is from Walla Crag’s northwestern face.

As more sun comes out, I spot another framing opportunity full of colour.

Looking back at the cliff-edge trail we followed. The amount of heather around Walla Crag is ludicrous.

Like, so much heather…

Aaaand… summit! Plenty of other folk enjoying the views from Walla Crag summit too. We stop for a quick bite and some water, taking the panorama in.

My ultra-wide 9mm lens was able to take in the vast panorama available from the summit of Walla Crag. One of the best views in the whole of the Lake District.

With my 55mm attached, it was time to pick out some smaller scenes amongst the vast panorama. The hazy conditions allowed for a wonderful layering affect with Derwentwater Fells.

Mighty Skiddaw looming above Keswick.

After taking everything in, it was time to follow the trail back down from the summit towards the main path off Walla Crag, with heather still in abundance.

Looking across the moorland and ferns, deep into the Jaws of Borrowdale.

Fellow hikers branch off from the path to take in the views towards the Helvellyn range, and Clough Head (726 m/2,382 ft) in particular.

Seemingly endless layers of fells in Borrowdale.

On the way back down off the fell, I spot this tree and arrange it underneath the peaks of Blencathra.

Magnificent Blencathra, demanding our constant attention as we climb off the shoulders of Walla Crag.

This is Armillaria mellea, or honey fungus. Apparently highly revered for its edible qualities, though a lot of UK species react with alcohol badly in people’s bodies causing nausea and vomiting. It’s generally best to parboil these mushrooms, and not consume alcohol for a day before and after eating them.

Follow other hikers along the trail back down to the car. The haze appears to lift somewhat around the Helvellyn fells.

The Helvellyn range above, with High Rigg and Low Rigg below.

Another fantastic day.

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