day hikes Ian Cylkowski day hikes Ian Cylkowski

Brough Castle, Cumbria, Spring

My shoulder’s starting to feel well enough for some more energetic and long-distance hikes.

My shoulder’s starting to feel well enough for some more energetic and long distance hikes.

With the weather forecast finally looking nice for the weekend, we spent Saturday with my Dad and took him to the historic village of Brough in Cumbria. Here one can find the impressive ruins of the 11th century Brough Castle.

The castle was built on the site of an older Roman fortification, called Verterae. The fort was in use until the 5th century. After William the Conqueror’s subjugation of England in 1066, his son—William Rufus—built Brough Castle in 1092 on top of the old Roman fort after successfully invading Northern England. The site of the old fort and castle overlooks Stainmore Pass and the River Eden, an important strategic stronghold.

Over the ensuing centuries, Northern England became a battle ground between the Kings of Scotland and England. In time, Brough Castle came into the hands of Clifford family. In particular, Lady Anne Clifford completely restored the castle in the 17th century, alongside a number of other properties within her vast estate. A fire broke out in 1666, gutting the castle. It fell into decline shortly afterwards, intermittently being stripped of stone for other constructions.

Brough Castle is now managed by English Heritage, who look after the ruins. We enjoyed a wander around these historical ruins, followed by a brief jaunt further along the Pennine Bridleway. Unfortunately, after February’s storms, most of this part of the bridleway was boggy and thick with greasy mud. We bailed on this occasion and resolved to do the hike again during drier conditions.

All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images developed using RNI Films’ Fortia SP film profile.

The route to Brough Castle enjoys spectacular clear views towards the Northern Pennines. No wonder this area has been used to build fortifications for so long.

And there she is. This is the southeastern profile of the castle, showing Clifford’s Tower and its 17th-century windows.

A young family ahead of us excitedly entered the grounds.

Once in the grounds of the ruins, it was time to don my ultra-wide lens for some vast compositions of the castle.

This composition was shot underneath the 12th-century arch, with a view towards the 17th-century Keep in the distance. A mind-boggling sense of time and history.

These hall ranges were last modified in the 14th-century. To the right, high up, is the high wall of the gatehouse.

At the other end of the site, we approached the imposing Keep. It was last modified by Lady Anne Clifford in the 17th-century, and she lived in it for a period during 1665.

The Keep, originally built in the 12th-century, enjoys excellent panoramic views to the River Eden.

The Gatehouse and ranges from the Keep. I don’t know why, but this photo puts me in mind of Machu Picchu.

In the neighbouring fields, horses graze peacefully. In the distance, the flat-topped Wild Boar Fell in Mallerstang can be made out.

What magnificent structures. Their remains tell a story 1,000-years old.

I made one more ultra-wide composition of the inner and outer ranges as the light was so good.

After exiting the ruins, we located the Pennine Bridleway and followed the trail west towards the River Eden.

The views quickly open up and we are afforded lovely scenes looking back at the ruins of Brough Castle.

Looking south across the fields to the Mallerstang valley, flanked by Wild Boar Fell and Mallerstang Edge.

Though the day was sunny and clear, there was a strong and bitingly cold wind. This meant the sun made intermittent appearances, variously scanning across the land in many patterns. Upon spotting this composition, I lined everything up and simply waited for the sun to break free of the clouds again to highlight the castle ruins.

It’s easy to see why there’s been a fort of some kind here since the Ancient Roman times.

The fields will soon fill up lambs once again.

Spring is on her way.

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Ian Cylkowski Ian Cylkowski

Mallerstang, Yorkshire Dales, Spring

We set out for a hike recently in the expansive and quiet valley of Mallerstang, in the northwestern corner of the Yorkshire Dales.

It’s getting hot in here.

The MetOffice confirmed that Spring 2020 has been the sunniest UK spring on record. By 27th May, Spring in the UK had already recorded 573 hours of sunshine, beating the previous record set in 1948 of 555.3 hours.

We set out for a hike recently in the expansive and quiet valley of Mallerstang, in the northwestern corner of the Yorkshire Dales. The day started out overcast and cooler, so we originally planned out quite a long route, hiking up towards the Pennine Bridleway to get the views and check out the Bridleway’s sculptures. But soon the clouds cleared, the temperatures rose to around the mid-20s, and the wind died so we broke the hike in half.

Mallerstang is a favourite of ours. It tends to get overlooked by many folk, who are often attracted to the main honeypots of the Yorkshire Dales, such as Ingleton’s waterfalls or the Ribblehead Viaduct. Mallerstang is a fairly long valley, about 6 miles long, and features two prominent ridges on each side of the valley: Mallerstang Edge (660 m/2,165 ft) to the east and Wild Boar Fell (708 m/2,323 ft) to the west, both distinctively flat-topped and beautifully sculpted. The valley’s also full of fascinating waterfalls including Hellgill Force, the biggest one.

All photos shot on a Fujifilm X-T2 with a 16–50mm f/3.5–5.6 lens using a customised Classic Chrome film simulation.

The Settle-Carlisle railway line travels through Mallerstang. Would love to take a train ride along this scenic route some day. A simple composition, utilising the rail track as a leading line to point straight towards Wild Boar Fell.

Hellgill Force, normally a thundering roar, reduced to a couple of rivulets dribbling down to the gorge.

Further up Hell Gill Beck the views really open up looking towards Wild Boar Fell.

Up on Pennine Bridleway, our goal is in sight. Overhead the clouds dissipate and we clearly make out the escarpment of the Northern Pennines.

This sculpture, found on the Pennine Bridleway, is called “Watercut” by Mary Bourne. The watery gap that divides the sculpture utilises the changing sky to echo the ever-changing flow of water. To the right is the flat-topped Mallerstang Edge.

It’s a brilliant concept.

Looking down the Pennine Bridleway as it descends into Mallerstang. One day, we’ll finish the route.

The sky clears, the temperatures rise, but we’ve made back to the road towards the car. A classic Yorkshire Dales composition featuring a narrow road, dry stone walls, and a shapely fell.

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