Buttermere, Lake District, Winter
It’s time for a mini-break.
It’s time for a mini-break.
We were planning for a Christmas break away in Scotland. But after the emergence and subsequent rise of the SARS-CoV-2-Omicron variant, we decided to cancel it.
One month on, with the situation more clear—and Lisabet transitioning between jobs—we decided to book a few days off and enjoy a long weekend around West Cumbria. We’ll be based near Cockermouth, but on the way we decided to take the scenic route via the Newlands Pass and into Buttermere. A walk around Buttermere’s gorgeous lake was in order.
And what a decision that was! We were greeted with clear blue skies, no wind, gorgeous light, and crystal-clear reflections. A fantastic way to start out mini-break.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images 95% made in-camera, finished for web in Pixelmator and Darkroom. I used Øyvind Nordhagen’s Modern Negative Fujifilm recipe.
The way down into Buttermere after navigating the beautiful Newlands Pass. With the High Stile range in view, excitement levels build.
Honestly, some church builders have a wonderful sense of setting. This is St. James’ Church in Buttermere. The original chapel was built in 1507, with the more modern construction dating from 1840 and restored in 1930.
First thing’s first, we needed to get down to the shores of Buttermere. But when we did, goodness me… I mean, look at it!
From Buttermere’s southern corner, the views back across the lake to the Grasmoor and Newlands fells were astounding.
Looking down Lorton Vale towards Mellbreak, the main fell that overlooks Crummock Water.
Directly across Buttermere, the Robinson fell crags of High Snockrigg and Goat Crag are illuminated in the late-morning wintersun.
Directly above us, the High Stile range looms over our heads.
Buttermere is ringed by so many distinctive fells, but arguably the one that commands your attention the most is Fleetwith Pike, seen here perfectly reflected in Buttermere’s waters.
I decided to play around with some compositions using my ultra-wide 9mm lens.
The path starts to open up as we near the edge of Burtness Woods directly beneath the High Stile range.
The way ahead, with Fleetwith Pike glowing like one of the Pyramids of Giza.
Across the water from Buttermere’s southwestern shore, Hassness Country House is a veritable beacon in the low wintersun.
The point where we turn away from Fleetwith Pike, towards Buttermere’s northeastern side.
The outflow of Warnscales Beck, looking back towards the Crummock Water fells.
High Crag looming above the Buttermere trail. Though not busy, there were a fair few folk wandering around various parts of the trail with us.
At Gatesgarth Farm, the trail becomes the road around the lake, before eventually rejoining the footpath around the northern shore of Buttermere. Before turning away, I get another look at beautiful Fleetwith Pike.
Couldn’t miss the opportunity to nab a composition of this delightful farm cottage set against the High Stile range.
From Buttermere’s northeastern side, the profile of the High Stile range becomes more apparent. There are three main peaks: High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike.
One of my favourite compositions and views to be found around Buttermere.
A lone tree along the northeastern shore of Buttermere catches the light, a contrast against the deep shadows of the High Stile range.
The shingle beach of Hassness Crag Wood offered a lovely leading line towards Mellbreak in the distance.
A field of Herdwick, happily grazing underneath the craggy wall of the Robinson/Hindscarth Fells.
A clear view of Mellbreak and its reflection.
In order to carry on walking around the northern shore of Buttermere, you need to navigate through Hassness Tunnel.
Popping out of the tunnel, the view back towards Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks was exquisite.
Time for my ultra-wide lens to nab some compositions of the High Stile range, with the sun setting behind them.
With previous cameras and lenses, I was never able to get a good shot of all three of High Stiles’ peaks. Now, with my 9mm ultra-wide, I was able to get all three of them in and more!
My 55mm was able to zoom right in and capture some of the gorgeous detail on Mellbreak.
One last look at Fleetwith Pike in the sunset light.
What a gorgeous day.
The Newlands Round, Lake District, Summer
The Great British Summer Heatwave has arrived.
The British Summer Heatwave has arrived.
In the week leading up to yesterday, Saturday 17th July, I had been planning a fell walk with my friend, Kate. She has more experience fell walking than I do, so we agreed to try a fell walk incorporating a view I’ve been after for years: Dale Head.
As the week progressed, it became apparent that a heatwave would arrive over the British Isles on the day of our walk. So we agreed to get up super early, drive to the location, and start the hike before temperatures became unbearable.
That was exactly the right decision.
Parking up at Honister Slate Mines, we started the steep ascent up the shoulder of Dale Head (753 m/2,470 ft) in comfortable temperatures of 15–16°C and a lovely breeze. By the time we had reached the final fell of the round, Robinson (737 m/2,418 ft), temperatures had risen into the mid-20s and the sun was strong. We had planned it well.
Kate turned out to be the perfect fell walking partner. Relaxed, sensible, and well-provisioned.
Here’s to more fell walking!
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using two of my prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2 and a Laowa 9mm f/2.8 lens. Images made 80% in-camera using a customised Classic Chrome film simulation, with minor corrections and edits afterwards in Lightroom and Affinity Photo.
The ascent up the shoulder of Dale Head from the Honister Slate Mine quickly opens these incredible views towards Buttermere and the Lorton Vale. Fleetwith Pike (648 m/2,126 ft) on the left was looking magnificent.
Looking back down the path we had taken, now the southern fells were becoming visible. Featuring Base Brown, Grey Knotts, and Green Gable.
At this height, the northern face of Kirk Fell (802 m/2,631 ft) was coming into view.
Aaaannddd… summit! The top of Dale Head, featuring its massive cairn and, more importantly, the ridiculous view if offers all the down the Newlands Valley towards the Skiddaw mountains. 8-years in waiting, and I loved every second.
Though the southern shoulder of Dale Head is steep, it is relatively smooth. By contrast, the fell’s northern face drops 400 m or so in less than a kilometre via Dale Head Crags. This enables this huge open view towards the High Spy and Maiden Moor ridge on the right, and the shoulder of Hindscarth on the left.
Probably my favourite shot of the day. The High Spy and Maiden Moor ridge, with its western flanks dropping sheer to the valley floor in a series of crags. In the distance, the Skiddaw range. Incredible.
Time to rest and refuel, which Kate and I were more than happy to do.
From Dale Head, there are unparalleled views towards the northern face of Fleetwith Pike and even, in the distance, mighty Pillar (892 m/2,927 ft).
West of Dale Head summit it’s easy enough to follow Hindscarth Edge to the next fell, drinking in the views all the way. Here is a clear shot of Buttermere and the massive High Stile range of fells above it.
The view back east shows the sheer craggy drop of its northern face as well as the crags of High Spy. In the distance is the Helvellyn range.
The way forward. Our next goal was to follow Hindscarth Edge and branch off to the right in order to summit Hindscarth itself.
Another view of Fleetwith Pike’s norther face and mighty Pillar in the centre. To the right is High Crag, part of the High Stile range.
Just below Hindscarth Crags I move towards the edge to nab this composition of the High Spy/Maiden Moor ridge with the Skiddaw and Blencathra ranges in the distance. Closer to me, a Swaledale lamb chews the cud and chills.
As we ascend Hindscarth, different views open up eastward. Below is Far Tongue Gill, to the right is Dale Head Crags, and left is Miners Crag and Red Crag of the High Spy/Maiden Moor ridge. In the distance, the Helvellyn range.
And another summit! This time, Hindscarth (727 m/2,385 ft), which offers a wonderful view down to the Newlands Valley floor and the Skiddaw range beyond.
Looking back at the High Stile range, I primarily took this shot for the British Isles-shaped cloud above the fells. You see it?
Being more west than when we started out, the High Spy/Maiden Moor ridge opens up and we can see Catbells (451 m/1,480 ft) as well. In the distance is the beautiful Blencathra fells.
A vertical composition from Hindscarth, looking down the trail to Scope End and the Skiddaw range in the distance. Just incredible views, no matter where you look.
High Spy, Maiden Moor, Catbells with beautiful Blencathra far away.
Kate happily resting by the wind shelter on Hindscarth. Across the valley is our next target, Robinson.
The way to the next fell, Robinson, involves returning back to the Hindscarth Edge trail and carrying onto the Littledale Edge trail towards Robinson. Before we did, I had to capture this panorama of fells from the Hindscarth summit.
Looking back at the Hindscarth Edge trail. Hard to believe we had walked all that way.
The Honister Pass, the top of which marked the start of our hike. We’ve made it quite far. In the distance is Glaramara (783 m/2,569 ft).
Nearing the top of Robinson. The small isolated fell of Rannerdale Knotts comes into view, followed by Crummock Water and Mellbreak above it. We can now see beyond the Lake District out to the Irish Sea.
And the third and final summit! Robinson was definitely the hardest to climb. The top is relatively flat but its sides a rather steep, with paths made largely of loose scree. By the time we reached Robinson, it was midday and temperatures were really starting to climb. I went scurrying around the summit with my ultra-wide lens to shot some of the interesting rock formations.
Utilising our previous route as a leading line towards the fells and featuring this wonderful craggy formation.
Fascinating geology. This is apparently an “olistostrome of disrupted, sheared and folded mudstone, siltstone and sandstone”. I also liked in this composition our the pile of rocks on the right mirrored the shape of the Skiddaw range to the left.
After the rather precipitous climb down Robinson’s northeastern flank to Buttermere Moss, I look back to shoot this profile of Robinson. More as a reminder of what we’d achieved.
What a wonderful day.
Newlands Valley, Lake District, Summer
On the Sunday following the Saturday, we threw caution to the wind and visited the Lake District for a solid hike.
On the Sunday following the Saturday, we threw caution to the wind and visited the Lake District for a solid hike.
Signs were looking good that, for a Sunday morning, the Lake District wasn’t looking too busy (use Safer Lakes to check the busyness of Lake District car parks). We drove to Keswick and plotted a hiking route from the town onto the Cumbria Way towards the Lingholm Estate, where we’d pause for refreshment. Then we’d continue on the Cumbria Way towards the foot of Catbells, and break off into the Newlands Valley, terminating at Little Town and circling back all the way to Keswick.
All in all, about 16 km and 25,000 steps. Pretty good.
It was a stupendously beautiful day in the Lake District, and the Newlands Valley in particular was looking absolutely incredible.
Please enjoy these photos.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0 lens. Images were made 80% in-camera using a customised Velvia film simulation, with minor edits afterwards in Lightroom and Affinity Photo.
Crossing the Greta Bridge here signifies the start of our walk onto the Cumbria Way. Given the weather we’d had, the river was looking very low.
The Cumbria Way bisects an open field, with clear views towards the Newlands fells one way and the Skiddaw range the other.
Pure Lake District. Mountains above, Herdwick sheep below.
Hot Herdwick ewes and their lamb find shade wherever they can. They’re about ready for clipping (shearing) I reckon.
Just south of the village of Portinscale, you enter a heavily wooded area. This is all part of the Lingholm Estate, the centre of which is a Victorian mansion built in the 1870s by Alfred Waterhouse.
The grounds of Lingholm Estate, and especially the Walled Gardens and Kitchen, are beautifully maintained.
Beatrix Potter made sketches of the octagonal kitchen garden and referred to it as her original inspiration for Mr McGregor’s garden in The Tale of Peter Rabbit.
Rhododendrons and foxglove. Pretty colour contrasts.
Everything was looking so lush in the gardens.
A brief window of light penetrates the woodland canopy, illuminating this uprooted tree.
After popping out of Overside Wood you enter what is simply known as The Park, and are greeted with the northern ridge of Catbells (451 m/1,480 ft), one of the Lake District’s most famous mountains.
Our journey that day did not involve Catbells, especially with the veritable train of people following the path up to the fell’s summit. Instead we took the minor road around the mountain’s western shoulder, heading towards the Newlands Valley. Already, the views look wonderful.
One of Keswick’s more familiar sights is the knobbly profile of Causey Pike (637 m/2,090 ft).
Rowling End (433 m/1,421 ft) slightly obscuring Causey Pike with Birkrigg Farm below.
Looking back the way we came, with the massive Skiddaw range looming above Keswick. My lovely Lisabet looking, well, lovely!
Following the minor road around Catbells’ western shoulder, the views open up more and more, giving us extensive panoramas of the Newlands fells.
An ultra-wide perspective of our way forward as the Newlands valley opens up.
The fell in the centre that looks like it’s had a massive bite taken out of it is Robinson (737 m/2,418 ft). The name might seem unusual, given most fell and place names in Cumbria have Old Norse origins. Apparently the land that included the fell was purchased by a Richard Robinson centuries ago. The fell, at the time unnamed, became known as Robinson’s Fell, and eventually shortened to Robinson.
I suspect this minor road was once a miner’s road (see what I did there?). According to the OS Map, ahead of us at Yewthwaite was some disused old mining works beneath Maiden Moor (576 m/1,890 ft).
We followed the trail through the old mines and onward towards Little Town. Ahead of us, Ard Crags’ (581 m/1,906 ft) pointy profile is revealed. But what I’m looking for is just around the corner of High Crags…
And there it is. In my mind, one of the best views in all of Lakeland. Dale Head (753 m/2,470 ft) on the left, Hindscarth (727 m/2,385 ft) in the middle, and Robinson on the right.
Looking back the other way, we are treated to another gorgeous Lakeland summer scene. Herdwick sheep in the valley bottom, the Skiddaw range above.
We stopped for refreshment and delicious ice cream at Catbells Café in Little Town. Ard Crags, like a toddler amongst the grown-ups, still very much demanded our attention. Not a bad spot for refreshments, eh?
After pausing at Little Town we circled back and followed the trail all the way back towards the Cumbria Way and Keswick. This part of the trail is closer to the valley bottom and more open, giving us different views entirely.
A pleasing composition of ancient trees, farm fence and gate, and the Skiddaw range.
Lots of the standalone trees around this part of the Newlands Valley I suspect are rather old, and remnants from when this valley was cleared of woodland by Viking settlers.
It also means you find strange and unusual trees, such as this beauty. Ever seen a tree trunk like it?!
From one field into another, following an ancient lane back towards Skiddaw.
One final look back at the Newlands fells, with groups of Texel sheep and lambs dotted about.
Back on the minor road underneath Catbells. Lisabet grabs a rare selfie, with Blencathra looking mighty in the distance.
Stormwater Bridge, a suspended footbridge, indicates our approach is near Keswick. The Skiddaw range looms ever closer.
Herdwick lambs seeking shade from the warm day. They are born jet black, save for tufts of white around their ears. As they age, their face and legs turn white and their fleece becomes a dark, chocolatey brown. It’s not until they’re 2-3 years of age that they get their first clip (shear), which reveals the characteristic grey Herdwick fleece underneath.
Zen Cow is contemplating existence…
Keswick town was busy. Time to navigate through the crowds in order to get back to the car.
What a wonderful day it was.