Lingmoor Fell, Lake District, Winter
I’ve been wanting to get into the snowy mountains for a while.
I’ve been wanting to get into the snowy mountains for a while.
As I’d accrued a fairly significant amount of flexi-time at work, I used it to take a mid-week day off and headed into Lake District.
Lingmoor Fell is a small hill I’ve had my eye on for quite some time. It’s only a modest fell, standing at 469 m (1,540 ft) a.s.l., but what it lacks in height it more than makes up with the sensational views it offers. Lingmoor Fell’s isolated position in the Central Lake District—separating Great Langdale from Little Langdale—means some of the finest panoramas in all the Lake District can be found on this small fell.
Though I ultimately didn’t feel confident or skilled enough to properly summit Lingmoor in the current sub-zero temperatures, I nevertheless managed ascending the fell’s shoulders and obtained some absolutely crackin’ photos.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–3.8 zoom and Laowa 9mm f2.8 prime lenses. Shot using the camera’s Classic Chrome film simulation, edited in Capture One for iPad, and finished in Affinity Photo 2 for iPad.
Lingmoor Fell, Lake District, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
The start of the walk ascends the fellside from Elterwater village, through winding country roads that have become a winter wonderland, totally frozen.
After navigating the country roads and Sawrey’s Wood, you soon emerge onto the open fellside with wonderful views across Great Langdale towards the Grasmere fells.
The tiny village of Chapel Stile in the Great Langdale valley, with the rusty, craggy fells looming high above in the morning winter light.
Lots of quarrying has happened around the slopes of Lingmoor Fell, and continues to this day (though on a much smaller scale). I sneaked into this disused quarry largely for the icicles.
The old miner’s track provided a clear way up the fell. The day was crisp and bitingly cold, with the moon clear above. My destination was the peak illuminated by the sun.
It didn’t take long before I came across the Lake District’s famous sheep, Herdwicks. The path continued up to the left.
Herdwicks are such posers. They know they’re pretty.
Up on the shoulder of Lingmoor Fell the views instantly open up in all directions. Here the rusty bracken and crags of Lingmoor Fell provide a nice contrast to the distant wintery views of Ambleside and the Kentmere fells.
Over the wall, towards Grasmere, Fairfield can now clearly be seen with a dusting of frost on its flat summit.
Herdwicks graze upon the scant vegetation of a crag. The ridge of Lingmoor Fell is totally lined with this drystone wall, making it easy to navigate along the fell.
I turned away from summiting Lingmoor Fell as the path quickly become a long sheet of ice. Instead, I skirted around its shoulder towards some disused quarries. Here, Wetherlam and Swirl How revealed their wintery magnificence to me.
I took a water break near this crag and started crawling around it with my ultra-wide angle lens, looking for compositions involving those beautiful wintery mountains.
This one’s probably the best of the bunch.
Heading back down the old miner’s track, I catch a glimpse of one the axe-like peaks of the Langdale Pikes, and line up a composition.
Not a bad place for a cottage, eh?
Back on the winding country roads towards Elterwater village.
What a crackin’ day.
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Walltown Crags, Northumberland, Autumn
There’s so much history in the UK that it can sometimes be hard to separate the work of man from nature.
There’s so much in history in the UK that it can sometimes be hard to separate the work of man from nature.
With a beautiful autumnal weekend on the horizon, Lisabet and I set out to meet up with my Dad for a hike somewhere new: Walltown Country Park in Northumberland.
Two things piqued our interest in this place. Firstly, there’s a great section of Hadrian’s Wall to explore here. And secondly, an art sculpture—known as APERTURA—was set up near the wall as part of celebrating 1,900 years since Hadrian’s Wall was built. Isn’t that astounding?
We couldn’t have asked for better conditions. The day was bright, but not harsh; crisp, but not cold; colourful, but not garish. The staff and volunteers at Walltown Country Park couldn’t have been more helpful and friendly, and exploring this section of Hadrian’s Wall and its turrets was absolutely fascinating.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–3.8 zoom and Laowa 9mm f2.8 ultra-wide prime lenses. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed in RNI Films, and finished in Affinity Photo for iPad.
Walltown Crags, Northumberland, Autumn by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
The approach to APERTURA. A striking sight. It’s shape was designed to mimic the geography of the local area, an insight I was keen to demonstrate in this photo.
With my 9mm ultra-wide equipped I was able to capture the entire installation and use the distortion effects of an ultra-wide angle lens to emphasise the shape.
I enjoyed juxtaposing the tip of APERTURA with the afternoon sun, emphasised by setting my lens at f22 to turn the sun into a star.
APERTURA features 1,900 copper chimes of different sizes (to reflect the 1,900 years of Hadrian’s Wall), which all clang together in the wind, creating a fascinating sonic experience akin to church bells ringing.
Another composition presented itself to me, where I was able to frame Walltown Crags underneath the art installation and its imposing stature.
Whilst prowling around the art installation, enjoying its tones and construction, I noticed the moon was bright in the sky. I re-equipped my Vivitar and zoomed in tight to make the installation “point” towards the moon.
From this angle APERTURA almost looks like a spaceship, or perhaps even a B-2 Spirit Stealth Bomber plane.
We rounded back on ourselves, this time taking the longer path towards Walltown Crags, pictured here high above the pond. Walltown Country Park was formerly a quarry until 1976, and has since been allowed to be reclaimed by nature.
APERTURA, in context of the landscape. It is situated on a small ridge where part of Hadrian’s Wall is now missing.
On the path heading up to the top of the crags, Lisabet and I spotted this lovely simple composition of two trees framing a smaller one in the distance. Nothing fancy, but pleasing nonetheless.
Near the top of Walltown Crags the scale of APERTURA and the landscape becomes more apparent.
Made it to Hadrian’s Wall, now 1,900-years old. That mean the wall’s construction began in 122 AD. Crazy.
Emperor Hadrian commanded a wall to be built across Roman Britain, ostensibly to keep “northern barbarians” out. However, it also served as a way of keeping people in Roman Britain, and controlling trade across the border.
The wall ran from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the Northeast of England to Bowness-on-Solway in Northwestern Cumbria, a distance of 80 Roman miles, or 73 modern miles. Large sections of the wall survive, particularly in hillier areas such as here at Walltown Crags and more famously at Housesteads Fort.
The Romans made use of the local geography when constructing the wall. Large sections of it in Northumberland are built on top of various protruding crags made from hard volcanic dolerite rock. This would’ve gave the Romans a panoramic advantage when trying to spot invasions in the distance.
Of course, the local sheep are oblivious to the historical human significance of the area.
The Walltown Crags are volcanic in origin, made from hard dolerite and known as the Whin Sill. It’s exactly the same rock and protrusion you see at High Cup Nick, High Force, Low Force, and Cauldron Spout, and even as far as the Farne Islands in the North Sea. Geology North has a good map of where in North England the Whin Sill has surfaced above ground to create incredible landscapes.
Looking back at our progress across the top of Walltown Crags, tracking the route where sections of Hadrian’s Wall would’ve been. Unfortunately, even in these hillier parts of the wall, sections are missing where they’ve probably been dismantled for building material over the centuries by farmers and/or landowners.
Our destination: two protruding crags where—according to the OS map—one could find the remnants of Turret 44B and Turret 44A.
A pleasing Northern English scene, featuring trees growing from a solitary crag with cows grazing peacefully below.
Looking back at our progress from Turret 44B. It’s theorised that towering turrets were built along the wall every third of a mile, given the wall structure.
My Dad below, taking in the history of the area, as I clamber up the crag to soak in the extensive views.
Honestly, we could’ve happily carried on the trail to see even more of the wall. Alas, parking is expensive and we were due back. Definitely more to check out next time!
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Cunswick Scar, Lake District, Summer
After a wet week, it was nice to get up on the fells above Kendal.
After a wet week, it was nice to get up on the fells above Kendal.
On the Sunday, Lisabet had a series of obligations to attend to, so I took the opportunity for a solo hike. As Kendal sits in a valley (Kent + Dale, that is, “the valley of the river Kent”), it is flanked east and west by small fells. On the western side of the valley the ground gently rises up before terminating in a series of limestone cliffs plunging down to the Lyth Valley. The main fell here is Scout Scar, a local favourite, but a smaller sibling can be found further north: Cunswick Scar.
On this occasion my route to the summit was a fairly standard one: head up through the winding paths and roads through Kendal to the Helsfell Nab path. Follow the path all the way up and around Helsfell Nab, cross the bridge over the A591, and continue on the gently rising trail all the way to the summit cairn of Cunswick Scar.
A beautiful summer’s day.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–f3.8 lens. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed in RNI Films, finished in Affinity Photo for iPad.
Cunswick Scar, Lake District, Summer by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
A glorious day in Kendal, full of promise.
Up on Queen’s Road. The views over Kendal here are already beautiful.
On the Helsfell Nab path you round an allotment above Windermere Road. Gardening here must be lovely with views like this.
I can never resist these two compositions when walking the Helsfell Nab path.
It all just lines up in such a pleasing way.
Even the local sheep like to pause from grazing to enjoy the views every now and then.
At these disused barns the path rounds Helsfell Nab and climbs sharply up. You’re then above the A591, where you cross the bridge over the road to continue on towards Cunswick Scar.
The route is clear all the way up to the summit. Sheep peacefully graze and wander the fell.
The summit cairn and the crackin’ views all the way towards the Kentmere fells.
A zoomed in composition shows off the Kentmere fells with light and shadow dancing across their features.
Directly west from the summit, the rolling Lyth Valley is capped by the distance Lake District fells.
Time to navigate off Cunswick Scar’s shoulder. Like Scout Scar, the fell is primarily composed of limestone, so different flora flourishes on the fell compared to the Kendal valley.
The views heading back east ain’t too bad either. Nearest, to the right, is Benson Knott, and in the distance are the beautiful Howgills.
Oh! A winding drystone wall? Time for a photo then.
For the returning route, I chose the path over Kendal Fell Golf Course. Across the field is the back of Helsfell Nab.
A herd of cows rest in the afternoon sun.
Not a bad place for a golf course, eh?
Back down Beast Banks into town.
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Sedbergh Meadows, Cumbria, Summer
British weather has returned to its unpredictable norm since the heatwave.
British weather has returned to its unpredictable norm since the heatwave.
This has made getting out for good long hikes—either during the weekends or in the evenings—difficult. We’ve had periods of torrential downpours, almost monsoon-like.
Britain gets more tropical by the year.
Finally, yesterday evening, an opportunity arose to vacate Kendal for a nice hike around Sedbergh and its gorgeous meadow fields underneath the Howgills.
The good light didn’t last long… but it was long enough.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using a Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105mm f2.8–f3.8 zoom lens. RAWs converted in Capture One for iPad, developed in RNI Films, finalised in Affinity Photo for iPad.
Sedbergh Meadows, Cumbria, Summer by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
The walk begins up Castlehaw Lane, which takes you up and around the shoulder of Castlehaw Tower. Sedbergh is full of ancient buildings, some better preserved than others.
Soft light on this tree trunk provides an irresistible scene for me to capture.
Further up Castlehaw Lane lots of wild vegetation lined the track, including something more unfamiliar and almost “alien” to us. Turns out this is Elephant Garlic, or Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum. Closer relative of leek than garlic, apparently. Never seen one before.
Beyond Castlehaw Lane and Howgill Barns, the track becomes little more than a vague depression across the fields. The views also open up tremendously, here showing a clear view towards Garsdale in the Yorkshire Dales.
What turned out to be the last of the evening’s light finally appeared, illuminating the fields, trees and fellside. It was very localised though, and the Dentdale fells were still dark with rain clouds.
A variety of cross-breed upland lambs glow in the evening light. They stared at us curiously, incessantly baaing and warning each other.
The light quickly started to fade but the views were still spectacular.
At Ghyll Farm we cut the usual long hike short as the light was fading. A vague path bisected through the fields towards Underbank, which we took. Along the way, beautiful strong horses were peacefully grazing the meadows.
A brave Texel yow approaches us for a closer look.
The famous Herdwick. Just look at that Teddy Bear-like face.
From Underbank we located an ancient lonnin (country lane), which heads all the way back to town. You can almost picture a shepherd guiding their flock along the lane.
An almost timeless scene.
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Gowbarrow, Lake District, Spring
Spring has changed very quickly in the UK.
Spring has changed very quickly in the UK.
A couple of weeks ago temperatures barely rose above 10ºC, often settling in at around 5–7ºC. Within the last week, temperatures have suddenly risen to 15ºC with clear skies and barely a breeze. Today, the weather nearly hit 20ºC.
Spring is very weird in the UK these days. That gradual transition from winter to spring doesn’t seem to happen anymore. Instead, after months of sub-5ºC conditions and plenty of rain, you’ll get a week in March or April where it feels a switch has been flicked and temperatures suddenly leap 10 degrees.
Weird.
Well, with a rare free day in current circumstances, Lisabet and I decided to get up early and head to Ullswater for a steep but rewarding hike up Gowbarrow Fell. The last time we visited this fell was back in April of 2021. The weather could not have been more different.
Thankfully, on this occasion, all of my batteries were fully charged and working. What a glorious morning’s hike we had.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using two of my prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0 and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images made 80% in-camera using the Velvia film simulation, then finished off in Affinity Photo.
A dead tree provides a wonderful subject and contrast against the deep blue sky. A flock of Swaledales wearily judge us in the distance.
One of the many deep cascades along Aira Beck at High Cascades, before the river then plunges down the spectacular Aira Force.
These Swaledale yows moved a comfortable distance away from us for a good hard stare.
Beyond High Cascades the path turns east and climbs sharply up the fellside of Gowbarrow. Herdwick sheep were everywhere. I’ve missed those faces.
Unlike Swaledales, Herdwicks aren’t too fussed about being too near humans. I managed to snap this composition of some Herdwicks chilling in the glorious spring sunshine with the Ullswater fells in the distance.
The going was steep, but the views grew increasingly spectacular as we climbed up the fellside.
Aaaaaand summit! The summit of Gowbarrow Fell is known as Airy Crag, appropriately named, and reaches 481 m (1,578 ft) above sea level. The views here are all-encompassing, especially look southwest towards the Helvellyn fells.
I snapped on me 55mm lens for some tighter, zoomed in compositions. From the summit of Gowbarrow Fell and clear view towards Blencathra (868 m/2,848 ft) above Keswick can be appreciated.
After the summit it was a simple task of following the narrow winding footpath around Gowbarrow’s northern and eastern shoulder. In places, the drop from the footpath is rather precipitous.
Lisabet pauses to check on my progress, so I snapped this composition. Truly glory awaits us around the corner…
Hundreds of metres below us the Ullswater Steamers begin the first of many travels across the lake.
And there it is. In my view, one of the grandest views in all of the Lake District. Ullswater and the Helvellyn fells.
Who can resist pausing for a rest and some photos, with a view like that?
Helsfell Nab, Kendal, Cumbria, Spring
This weekend, it really feels like Spring has arrived.
This weekend, it really feels like Spring has arrived.
Temperatures rose to the mid-teens, finally, and the skies have cleared up. The daffodils are out in full, and this year’s lambs are alternatively dosing in the sun and sucking at their mums.
Despite everything going on in the world—globally, locally, familially—Lisabet and I managed to get out for a good walk in the local area. I’ll never take living in Kendal for granted; 10 minutes out from the front door, and I can be hiking up the fellside with vast views in every direction.
I am very, very fortunate.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Fujinon 23mm f/2.0 and my adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images developed in Lightroom, finished in Affinity Photo.
A clear day above Kendal clock tower, the Ukrainian flag flying high and proudly.
One of the oldest surviving pubs in Kendal, Ye Olde Fleece Inn. Built in 1634.
Despite Brexit, war, economic turmoil, and a global pandemic, it’s wonderful to see the 1657 Chocolate House still going strong.
The ruins of Kendal Castle above the football fields and cricket pitches.
Heading up Beast Banks, free books on offer for anyone who wants them. Also, No Sexists Allowed.
On the Helsfell footpath branching off Queens Road, pigeons are kept as pets, left to freely fly around the area.
The views open up as I climb higher above the town.
Windows XP.
This year’s spring lambs, happily dozing in the sun.
Not a bad place to chill out with your dozing lambs.
Still just a smidgen of snow left on the Kentmere/Longsleddale fells.
The curving shadow of the wall lends itself as a lovely leading line towards the sheep in the field and ultimately to the distant Lake District fells.
Heading back towards town, a curving drystone wall proves an irresistible temptation for a photo.
Layers and layers.