Grisedale, Lake District, Winter
Happy New Year, everyone! Here’s to a peaceful and gentler 2024.
Happy New Year, everyone! Here’s to a more peaceful and gentle 2024.
Though I’ve enjoyed time off work between Christmas and New Year, it’s not exactly been pleasant. Storm Gerrit washed across the UK, rendering most days miserably wet. There were even tornado warnings, largely unheard of in the UK.
On New Year’s Eve we learned that New Year’s Day promised much nicer conditions, and so we endeavoured to rise early and head into the Lake District for a solid yomp on the first day of 2024.
Conditions were certainly nicer, though you can never predict weather in the Lake District 100%. Hiking along the valley bottom of Grisedale towards the valley’s head, we were washed with wave after wave of fine drizzle. Thankfully, it never rained that hard, and in between the downpours we still managed to nab some glorious photos.
All photos taken on my Sony α7ii using my Pentax SMC 28mm F3.5 and Pentax SMC 55mm f2.0 prime lenses. RAWs developed in Lightroom using RNI Films’ Kodachrome film profiles, finalised in Photoshop.
Grisedale, Lake District, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
A sign of things to come. St. Sunday Crag (841 m/2,759 ft), rising above a sodden landscape with stormy clouds above.
Much of the first half of hiking into the valley comprised of dodging waves of drizzle. When one cleared up for long enough, I snuck this shot of Eagle Crag and Dollywaggon Pike (858 m/2,815 ft) battling with the low clouds.
Arriving closer to the turning point, we contemplated the condition of the trail on the other side of the valley. The hike in, on the south of the valley, is thankfully paved but had still been rendered in parts as a beck due to all the rain. I knew that the northern path back down the valley wasn’t in as good nick. So, from here, we turned back the same way we came in.
Thankfully, this was also when conditions started to clear up and the Helvellyn range of fells began to reveal themselves.
Eagle Crag with Nethermostcove Beck roaring down the fellside. A project was started in 2021 to return the valley’s main river, Grisedale Beck, back to its original “wiggly” form. To quote the Friends of the Ullswater Way: “As with many rivers in the UK, Grisedale Beck has historically been straightened and reinforced so that fields can be drained to improve grazing. This work was undertaken over 200 years ago and since then we have learned a lot about how straightened and reinforced rivers can negatively affect wildlife and increase flood risk. It should be noted that, despite the historic changes made to the river at the project site, this is still not particularly good grazing land, being very rough pasture and quite boggy in areas.”
Heading back down the valley, we kept turning back at the beautiful view at the head of Grisedale. Primarily to check on any incoming rain washing over the fells, but also to gawp at them. I enjoyed this composition as the trail seemingly leads across the image towards Nethermostcove Beck on the right. Pure mood.
One of the few pines left in the valley points a vibrant branch towards the beautifully cracked glacial erratic.
As the cloud cover finally starts to lift, Falcon Crag and Tarn Crag emerge from behind Dollywaggon Pike.
Light finally breaks through the clouds as we retreat further down the valley.
The beck streaming down from Blind Cove provides a nice leading line towards the vertical face of St. Sunday Crag.
The fells become obscured again. Another wave of rain heads towards us.
As another squall washes over us, I look across to the northern side of Grisedale and spot these bright becks cascading down the fellside. I very quickly nab a photo.
Soon, we near the foot of the valley and the rains were finally done for the afternoon. Look at that mountain backdrop.
Heading back towards the car, the hulking mound of Place Fell catches the warm winter light across its crags.
We elected for the scenic route back to Kendal, heading north out of Patterdale, through Matterdale, and onto the A65. That way we could turn off to head down St. John’s in the Vale and join the A591 back to Kendal. I kept my camera out, with the 55m attached to it, and grabbed this epic scene of Blencathra from the passenger’s side.
Down St. John’s in the Vale, I kept snapping happily, praying that at least one of the shots rendered sharp. Here, the deep cleft of Beckthorns Gill cuts into various crags of Clough Head.
Further south on the A591, near Thirlmere, Fisherplace Gill cuts a deep fissure within the crags of the Helvellyn massif. The farmhouses below look miniscule in comparison.
The distinctive shape of Browncove Crags, a subsidiary top of Helvellyn, with another deep gill caused by Helvellyn Gill.
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Grisedale, Lake District, Summer
It was time to show Dad the glory of Grisedale.
It was time to show Dad the glory of Grisedale.
With the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee giving us two days holiday, Dad and I were able to spend some time together. We embarked on a hike up Grisedale, an offshoot of the main Patterdale valley near Ullswater. To my mind, Grisedale features one of the greatest valley sceneries in all of the Lake District.
I’ve attempted to show Dad Grisedale before, but the good ol’ Lake District rain has impeded us.
This time, we could not have asked for better conditions.
Please enjoy these glorious scenes. And, if you do like them, consider supporting me.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my new Vivitar “Series 1” 28–105 mm f/2.8–3.8 lens. Developed in Lightroom, finished in Affinity Photo. Grisedale, Lake District, Summer © 2022 by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.
Parking up at Patterdale’s King George V playing fields and pavilion, you are immediately greeted with the sheer face of Place Fell.
The lane leading to Grisedale is lined with rhododendron. I think this one may be Rhododendron fauriei.
The first inkling of what lies ahead. Black Crag, a sub-peak of St. Sunday Crag, soaring above us into the clear blue sky.
The road from Patterdale to Grisedale is quite the pull, but once you arrive at the valley… wow. One of the best valley backdrops in all of Lakeland.
There were a few hikers about, which is to be expected on a Bank Holiday. However, most of them were heading up the main trail to Helvellyn via Striding Edge. Not for us, thanks.
Testing out the capabilities of my Vivitar lens. This was shot at the full 105 mm zoom. A local farmer muck spreading across the valley bottom.
At Elmhow Farm, a composition catches my eye. A small barn fell into shadow, and I notice the similarity of its silhouette with the peak of Dollywaggon Pike above. A connecting shadow cast by the passing clouds completed this composition.
Beyond Elmhow, the valley starts to narrow as we approach the head. All along the way, Dollywaggon Pike watches over us.
I love watching clouds cast shapes and shadows on a fellside.
The cloud cover starts to thicken, casting deep shadows across the mountainous landscape. Glorious light conditions.
The trail narrows and winds as we approach the head of Grisedale. High above us are Falcon Crag and Tarn Crag, which drop down to Grisedale Tarn.
The path leads around the bottom of Post, on the left, a small crag that rise out of the valley floor. Above, Dollywaggon Pike is illuminated in between the racing clouds.
The small crag of Post, on the near left, enjoys a slither of summer light scanning along its surface. In the distant left are Falcon Crag and Tarn Crag, dead centre is Dollywaggon Pike, and to the right is Eagle Crag, a sub-peak of Nethermost Pike.
Immediately above us, on the southern side of the valley, is the sheer wall of St. Sunday Crag.
Dollywaggon Pike, punching the sky, cast in light and shadow. The joy of exploring the scenery at 105mm.
Another 105mm composition, zooming in on the crags of Eagle Crag as the light plays across them.
Looking back at our progress, down the length of Grisedale back towards Place Fell.
Crossing the boggy valley floor at Grisedale Beck, Dollywaggon Pike still demanding attention as its sunlit peak acts as a beacon.
The sheer wall of St. Sunday Crag, immediately above the Crossing Plantation.
Zooming on St. Sunday Crag and the shoulder of Post, criss-crossing each other in an interesting light-filled composition.
Place Fell’s bulk rises above the rolling valley bottom of Grisedale.
Our route back involved navigating the trail on the northern side of Grisedale. Here, erect ferns line the path, ready to bloom any day.
A person-sized glacial erratic, cleft in twain.
Another look back at Grisedale’s magnificent backdrop, with fellow hikers not far behind us.
A beautiful Herdwick ewe navigates the northern fellside amongst the fern.
The last of the year’s bluebells catching the light inside Broomhill Plantation.
My Dad after nabbing a shot of the frankly stunning scenery.
A Texel (?) yew enjoys a rest in the ferns.
Her lamb, following suit.
One last look back at Grisedale, now with more cloud cover making the sun beam shafts of light on the landscape. St. Sunday Crag to the left, Dollwaggon Pike and Nethermost Pike on the right.
Back on the valley floor, a Herdwick lamb stares at us quizzically.
Another lamb enjoys a mid-afternoon snooze in the summer sun.
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Grisedale, Lake District, Spring
Grisedale has to be in my top 3 favourite Lake District valleys.
Grisedale has to be in my top 3 favourite Lake District valleys.
I have a fairly troubled history with this place. The last time both Lisabet and I visited it was the middle of summer on a clear and hot day. We hiked all the way from the foot of the valley to Grisedale Tarn and back down. About 7 miles and 1,300 ft of ascent. In mid-20s heat, with no wind or clouds. Whilst being 23/24 stone. I suffered on that walk, and stumbled a lot on the way back down, which angered me.
Now I’m 7-stone lighter, much fitter, and mentally better. It was time to revisit this gorgeous valley, especially as it’s my birthday weekend (38 years on this planet, goodness).
Grisedale is a tributary valley of Patterdale, located in the north-eastern Lake District. Not to be confused with Grizedale Forest, which I’ve also been to. There’s quite a few Grisedale in Cumbria and North Yorkshire, and the etymology is the same: Old Norse gris meaning “pig” or “boar”, and Old Norse dalr meaning “valley”, giving us “valley of the boars”.
Most people access Grisedale for the purposes of summitting Helvellyn via Striding Edge, one of the “classic” Lakeland fells for thrill-seekers. But Grisedale itself has so much to offer, especially the views toward the head of the valley, featuring the craggy faces of Nethermost Pike (891 m/2,923 ft) and Dollywaggon Pike (858 m/2,815 ft), both ultimately subsidiary tops of Helvellyn itself (950 m/3,118 ft).
We arrived good and early, pre-8am. By the time we returned to the car, the car park was full as well as all the lay-bys and roads around Ullswater.
This summer is going to be insanely busy.
All photos shot on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Samyang 35mm f/1.2, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Developed using RNI’s E100G film profile.
Lacing up.
As soon as you pop out of Waterfall Woods, this is the view that greets you. Look at it. One of the best valley backdrops in all of Lakeland.
Lambing is in full flow in the Lake District now. There are plenty of Herdwicks in Patterdale, but in Grisedale there are more Swaledales.
Heading through Elmhow Plantation, when an old stone barn catches our eye for a composition. Especially lovely as we were sitting in the shadow and the morning sun was starting to catch the Helvellyn fells.
Heading through Crossing Plantation as we get closer to the head of Grisedale. Dollywaggon Pike glows like a beacon in the morning sun.
Exiting Crossing Plantation, with the sheer slopes of St Sunday Crag (841 m/2,759 ft) rising to our left.
My lovely Lisabet looking tiny underneath Dollywaggon Pike. The interesting little crag to the left underneath the fell is referred to on OS maps simply as “Post”. The more you know.
Looking back down Grisedale from whence we came. In the distance is the hulking mass of Place Fell (657 m/2,156 ft).
After reaching the head of Grisedale we crossed the tiny footbridge and started our way back down the north-eastern side of the valley. We stopped at Nethermostcove Beck to shoot some compositions looking towards Eagle Crag, as well as for refreshment.
One of the finest scenes in Grisedale.
As we neared the foot of Grisedale, several gates offered some lovely compositions involving the full expanse of the valley. St. Sunday Crag to the left, and the Helvellyn fells to the right.
An older gate, still in use.
Back at the valley bottom, near Waterfall Woods, I attach my 9mm ultra wide lens to use the trees as a frame for this scene.