Clougha Pike, Forest of Bowland, Lancashire, Summer
The last few weeks have been… tough.
The last few weeks have been… tough.
Not long after our hike to and around Stockghyll Force, I managed to acquire some form of vertigo for a few days, which was decidedly unpleasant. The following week, my lovely Lisabet came down with a rather nasty summer cold, and I managed to fall down the stairs, spraining my wrist and severely bruising my butt. Then the week after, I caught Lisabet’s cold.
Yeesh.
Finally though, we were both fit and healthy, ready to get back out in nature. Following wise counsel from our nature expert friend, Andrew, we embarked on a completely new hike for us: the Clougha Pike circular.
Clougha Pike is the westernmost summit in the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Many peaks in the Forest of Bowland are gristone fells surrounded by heather-covered peat moorland, blanket bog, and deep wooded valleys. Clougha Pike is no different, though its southern face drops away dramatically to the valley floor, and is clearly visible from most areas around Lancaster.
I ended up being in rather a lot of pain for this 10km hike. For reasons unknown to me, I slowly developed a blistering headache as the hike went on. This was paired with a sore neck (from having to look down at my footing a lot), sore knees (an every day occurrence), and painful feet (soles in my boots are now too thin).
Oh also, around the lower areas of the walk, having to deal with all the sheep flies and deer flies.
Despite all of this, the hike was gorgeous. The heather was in full bloom, covering the land and fells in carpets of mauve flowers. We were also experiencing the tail end of Storm Betty, so the higher we ascended the more the 50 mph winds punched our bodies.
All in all, it made for an epic day, and crackin’ photos.
Photos taken on my Sony α7ii using my Sony FE 28–70mm f3.5–5.6 OSS zoom lens. RAWS developed in Lightroom for iPad using RNI Films’ Fortia SP film emulation, then finalised in Affinity Photo 2 for iPad.
Clougha Pike, Forest of Bowland, Lancashire, Summer by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
Just a few yards from the car park and already we could see the extent of all the pinky purple heather blooming in the area.
This trail is the more direct route up to Clougha Pike. But for our hike, we chose a more circular clockwise route, skirting around the old quarries and heading towards Littledale.
Increasingly I delight in finding, composing, and shooting these more intimate scenes in nature.
This point marked the beginning of our ascent of the fellside above Littledale, the site of a former quarry.
After crossing the infant River Conder via a concealed viaduct now known as Ottergear Bridge, we continued ascending the fellside above Cragg Wood. In the distance, Caton Moor’s windfarm catches the emerging light.
The trail gently lowered back down the fellside, but not before I captured this delightfully bucolic English view.
Another ascent ahead of us, the time the proper one that takes us all the way up to the Clougha Fell moorland plateau. The cascades of Sweet Beck presented a lovely little composition.
A swaledale yew enjoys the view from the fellside above Sweet Beck, with Caton Moor still drenched in light.
As we start ascending the back of Clougha Fell, the greens of the grass is gradually replaced the pinks of heather and the dark tones of peat, punctuated with boulders of gritstone.
The Caton Moor windfarm still getting soaked in afternoon light. In the distance, the dark clouds press down on the southwestern fells of the Yorkshire Dales.
After tacking the tricky and occasionally boggy trail up the back of Clougha, we finally joined the gravel shooter’s track and the moorland plateau. Rather then heading straight for the summit, we looped around to check this Andy Goldsworthy sculpture.
Of course, we had to take turns clambering into the “chambers” for some photos. The nice thing is, in the 50+ mph winds, these chambers were a nice respite from being constantly wrestled by the wind.
It’s not quite Joe Cornish levels of composition skill, but I’ll get there one day.
A solitary gritstone boulder perched on the moorland plateau serves as a nice subject as it catches the light beneath the stormy skies.
From the summit of Clougha Pike, a mere 413 m/1,355 ft above sea level. Nevertheless, the views are gorgeous. From the summit we can see all the way across the Lune valley, towards Morecambe Bay.
From the summit, our way back down was immediately apparent. It was going to be rocky and steep.
From below Clougha Pike’s southern face, it’s easy to see how this is such a distinct and recognisable hill from many miles away.
A blast of light from the racing stormy clouds pulls all the gorgeous textures and colours from this scene.
One last look back at Clougha Pike, with heather everywhere, but we continued the descent down into the woodland toward the car park, fighting flies all the way.
Did you enjoy these photos?
Brough Castle, Cumbria, Spring
My shoulder’s starting to feel well enough for some more energetic and long-distance hikes.
My shoulder’s starting to feel well enough for some more energetic and long distance hikes.
With the weather forecast finally looking nice for the weekend, we spent Saturday with my Dad and took him to the historic village of Brough in Cumbria. Here one can find the impressive ruins of the 11th century Brough Castle.
The castle was built on the site of an older Roman fortification, called Verterae. The fort was in use until the 5th century. After William the Conqueror’s subjugation of England in 1066, his son—William Rufus—built Brough Castle in 1092 on top of the old Roman fort after successfully invading Northern England. The site of the old fort and castle overlooks Stainmore Pass and the River Eden, an important strategic stronghold.
Over the ensuing centuries, Northern England became a battle ground between the Kings of Scotland and England. In time, Brough Castle came into the hands of Clifford family. In particular, Lady Anne Clifford completely restored the castle in the 17th century, alongside a number of other properties within her vast estate. A fire broke out in 1666, gutting the castle. It fell into decline shortly afterwards, intermittently being stripped of stone for other constructions.
Brough Castle is now managed by English Heritage, who look after the ruins. We enjoyed a wander around these historical ruins, followed by a brief jaunt further along the Pennine Bridleway. Unfortunately, after February’s storms, most of this part of the bridleway was boggy and thick with greasy mud. We bailed on this occasion and resolved to do the hike again during drier conditions.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my three prime lenses: a Fujinon 23mm f/2.0, a Laowa 9mm f/2.8, and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0. Images developed using RNI Films’ Fortia SP film profile.
Scout Scar, Lake District, Winter
On Saturday just gone, my Dad celebrated his 68th birthday!
On Saturday just gone, my Dad celebrated his 68th birthday!
Do you know what else happened on that day? Storm Arwen arrived. And it brought with it sustained winds of over 60mph with gusts approaching 100mph. Ultimately it caused power cuts for tens of thousands of homes across the UK as trees were torn from their roots and slammed into power lines.
In Kendal, we were one of the lucky ones. So rather than try to get to Dad’s house for his birthday, which involves driving over the A6 or M6 at altitudes several hundreds of metres above sea level, we postponed the get-together for Sunday.
This was fortuitous because as Saturday blended into Sunday, Storm Arwen left and snow arrived. By the time Dad arrived in Kendal, a fresh coating of powdery snow had packaged Cumbria in wintery goodness. What to do? Go on a walk, of course!
So we hiked up an old favourite, Scout Scar, to get some crackin’ winter views across to the Lakeland fells. And surely we did.
A smashing day all round.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my Fujinon 23mm f/2.0 prime lens. Images were developed with RNI’s Fortia SP film profile, then finished off in Affinity Photo.
Various Places, Loch Lomond & the Trossachs, Autumn, Scotland
Our Loch Lomond holiday is over.
Our Loch Lomond holiday is over.
But before I say goodbye, here’s some bonus photos that didn’t really fit in with any of my other Loch Lomond Holiday posts.
I hope you enjoy them. Until next time, Scotland…
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my two prime lenses: a Laowa 9mm f/2.8 and an adapted Pentax SMC 55mm f/2.0 lens. Developed using RNI Films.
Kilchurn Castle & Loch Awe
The Falls of Falloch
RSPB Scotland Loch Lomond Nature Reserve
The Falls of Leny
Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond & the Trossachs, Scotland, Autumn
The rain finally ceased. So we set our sights on one of our “bookmarks” for this Loch Lomond holiday: Loch Katrine.
The rain finally ceased.
So we set our sights on one of our main “bookmarks” for this Loch Lomond holiday: Loch Katrine.
In particular, our true goal was a small yet isolated hill high above the loch called Ben A’an (461 m/1,512 ft). It’s a very popular hill walk and for good reason: it offers one of the grandest and most spectacular views in all of Scotland (check out the Wikipedia view here).
Unfortunately, at least for us personally, the car park and trail for the hill are being upgraded until the end of December 2021. It’s understandable; both the car park and the trail must take a battering every year.
Instead, we ventured on a loch shore walk along Loch Katrine’s northern and northeastern shore, breaking off every now and then for various compositions.
Despite the lack of ascent, the clarity of atmosphere and glorious conditions more than made up for it. Loch Katrine is 13 km long and only 1 km at its widest point, a true ribbon lake typical of a post-glacial make up. It’s ringed by various peaks all around except for the eastern shore. In particular, Ben Venue (729 m/2,392 ft) looms constantly above the loch’s southern shore, demanding your attention.
All photos taken on my Fujifilm X-T2 using my two prime lenses: an adapted Pentax 55mm f/2.0 and a Laowa 9mm f/2.8 lens. Developed using RNI Films’ Fortia SP film profile.
Fujifilm Color Chrome Effect: How To Recreate In Affinity Photo
This is how to create Fujifilm’s “Color Chrome” effect in Affinity Photo.
Back in 2017, camera nerds (myself included) were very excited by the arrival of Fujifilm's first digital medium format mirrorless camera: the Fujifilm GFX 50S.
It featured a sensor 1.7x larger than your usual full-frame 35mm digital camera sensor, in a small body, and promised incredible resolution and that oft-desired "medium format look". And all for considerably less money than the, at the time, current crop of digital medium format cameras.
The GFX 50S included Fujifilm's "film simulations", much like Fujifilm's previous APS-C sensor X-series cameras, but added an extra feature for this medium-format beast: the Color Chrome effect.
The inspiration behind the Color Chrome effect
According to the Fujifilm-X website:
The inspiration for this look comes from FUJICHROME Fortia, a color reversal film that was only available in Japan between 2005 and 2007. Fortia famously promised "more contrast and color than Velvia". The ultra-saturated look that Fortia delivered attracted a cult following, but because it was only made in limited quantities, not many photographers had the chance to try it - until now!
To give you an idea of what colours you could achieve on Fujichrome Fortia film, I've included some slides below:
As you can see, the colours on Fujichrome Fortia SP are rich, vibrant, and deep... but I wouldn't say "out of control". They're not Agfa Ultra 50 colours.
To my eye, and of course you're free to disagree, I find these colours just wonderful to look at.
Fujifilm sought to bring back those rich and deep tones of Fortia SP for their new Fujifilm GFX50s medium format camera. The result is called the Color Chrome effect, available in-camera in two strengths: Weak or Strong.
Quoting from Fujifilm-X again:
Usually, when photographing colors such as red, orange, or green under high-contrast conditions, it's easy for an RGB color channel to become overloaded - as if individually too bright. Under these conditions, with contrast and brightness at a maximum, there is no room for a full range of tones and the scene tends to look a bit flat. But with Color Chrome switched on, subtle differences of tone can be detected and enhanced. The result is a punchy, high saturation image that doesn't lose its impact and depth.
This in-camera setting was later ported over to several of Fujifilm's X-series of APS-C mirrorless cameras, such as the X-T3 and the T-30.
Older X-series cameras, such as my beloved X-T2, may never gain this setting.
But, I think I figured out to replicate this in Affinity Photo (you can translate this guide to Photoshop, if you want).
Here's how.
The Fujifilm Color Chrome effect tutorial
The image we're starting with I downloaded from DPReview's X-T4 sample gallery.
After some personal edits of the RAW file (change from Provia to Velvia, slight vignetting and minor contrast curve), this is the edit that I'll be applying the Color Chrome effect on.
Step 1: Load your edit in Affinity Photo.
Step 2: we're gunna first apply a small degree of colour boosting using Affinity Photo's curves adjustment. So add a Curves Adjustment layer.
Step 3: switch the colour mode of the Curves Adjustment from RGB to LAB.
Step 4: Switch the channel you want to edit from "Master" to "AOpponent".
Step 5: drag the bottom-left point of the Curve to the first line, then drag the top-right point to the third line. This creates a very extreme "s-curve". Working in the LAB colour mode allows us to modify only the Chroma (colours) of the image without altering its Luma (lightness). The colours affected in the "AOpponent" channel are Red and Green.
Step 6: switch to the "BOpponent" channel and repeat the same curve. This will affect the Blue and Yellow colours in the LAB colour mode.
The colour boost will be very strong, so feel free to reduce the opacity on this Curves Adjustment layer.
Step 7: we need to create a mask that will allow us to target only the colours that are strongly saturated i.e. a Saturation Mask. You can make one using a Selective Colour Adjustment layer.
Step 8: first, make sure you uncheck the "Relative" checkbox in the Selective Colour Adjustment window.
Step 9: for each colour in the Colour dropdown list, you'll want to move the "Black" slider all the way to the left. In this instance, we're already in the "Reds" colour, so slide the "Black" slider all the way left, to -100%. Then do some with Yellows, Greens, Cyans, Blues, and Magentas.
Step 10: for the next three "colours" in the Selective Colour Adjustment window ("Whites", "Neutrals", and "Blacks") you'll want to do the opposite and slide the Black slider all the way to the right, at 100%.
You'll end up with a weird grayscale image.
This is your Saturation Mask. It's a grayscale interpretation of where your most saturated colours are in the image. The closer to white the mask is, the more saturated a colour is. The closer to black the mask is, the more desaturated a colour is. In the image shown, the sign (which we know is red/orange) is very bright in this mask, indicating that the colours here are very saturated. Conversely, the grey wall towards the bottom-right of the image are represented as nearly black in this mask, telling us that the colours here are very desaturated.
Let's convert and save this into a mask.
Step 11: create a new "stamped" pixel layer of the Saturation Mask. Go to "Layer" in the menu, then "Merge Visible".
This will create a new pixel layer on top of your layer stack, filled with the Saturation Mask.
Step 12: right-click on the thumbnail of this new Pixel Saturation Mask layer and select "Rasterise to Mask".
Parts of this pixel layer will now go slightly transparent. This is fine.
Step 13: in the Channels panel, right-click on the thumbnail labelled "Mask Alpha" and select "Create Spare Channel".
This stores the Saturation Mask as a Spare Channel, for later use.
Back in the Layers panel, you can now safely delete the "(Mask)" layer and the "Selective Colour Adjustment" layer.
Step 14: this is the final stretch. Right-click on the Spare Channel you created, which contains the image's Saturation Mask, and select "Load To Pixel Selection". You'll get some "marching ants" dancing around your image, indicating that a selection is active.
Step 15: with the selection active, create a Curves Adjustment layer and change its Colour Mode from RGB to LAB. This new layer will load the selection you've made onto the Curves Adjustment layer as a mask. In short, you've added the Saturation Mask onto the Curves Adjustment layer.
This now means that any adjustment you make to this Curves Adjustment layer will affect only the most saturated colours in the image, because this adjustment is controlled by the Saturation Mask attached to it.
Step 16: change the channel in the Curves Adjustment window from "Master" to "Lightness".
Step 17: create a point in the middle of the curve and drag it down to darken the tones.
Because the Curves Adjustment is in LAB colour mode, and we're editing the Lightness channel, the edit we're making to the curve is only affecting the image's Luma (lightness), and not touching any of the colours. Furthermore, because we have a Saturation Mask attached to the Curves Adjustment layer, this means we're darkening the brightness of only the most saturated colours in the image.
This is the Color Chrome effect.
Let's have a look at some comparisons, shall we?
Conclusion
Do you think this is an accurate replication of Fujifilm's in-built Color Chrome effect? Do let me know, especially if think any improvements can be made.
Free Downloads
If you use Affinity Photo, I've created some free Macros that will automate the creation of the LAB Colour Boost and the Saturation Mask, important steps to recreating this Color Chrome effect.
Download: LAB Colour Boost
Download: Saturation Mask