Ambleside, Lake District, Winter
Temperatures have plunged.
Temperatures have plunged.
The nigh persistent rain of November and December has given way to a sub-zero climate and clearer conditions. Much better.
With a bright Saturday forecast, Lisabet and I ventured into the heart of the Lake District and major tourist hotspot, Ambleside. We wanted to do two walks: one, a small circular of Stock Ghyll Force, the other bigger hike up to High Sweden Bridge.
Despite being in the middle of a blisteringly cold winter in the Lake District, Ambleside was as busy as ever. This town never gets any rest.
All photos taken on my Sony α7ii using my SMC Pentax-M 28mm F3.5 and SMC Pentax-M 55mm f2.0 prime lenses, plus my Vivitar “Series 1” 70–210mm f2.8–4.0 zoom. RAWs developed in Lightroom, edited in Photoshop.
Ambleside, Lake District, Winter by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
A misty shot from the top of Stock Ghyll Force. Made by stacking five landscape 28mm shots, top to bottom, for a wider field of view.
The classic view of Stock Ghyll Force, currently in its more barren winter finery.
After stopping for delicious hot brews at Force Cafe, we followed the trail back down to the town. By the side of the road, this still life-esque scene revealed itself to me, and so quickly I quickly nabbed a composition.
From the town centre, it’s easy enough to find the route to the High Sweden Bridge trail. Given the direction of the low sun, we opted instead to take the trail anti-clockwise, which we’ve never done before, to get more side light.
The old packhorse bridge itself, with my Lisabet providing a nice colour contrast as she strolls across it. As I’ve mentioned on this site elsewhere, the name “High Sweden Bridge” might seem unusual, given this is located in the Lake District, England. The “sweden” aspect originally comes from the Old Norse sviðin (pronounced “swee-thin”), the past participle of svíða, meaning “to burn” or “to singe”. In this context, it refers to the clearing of land by burning.
Looking up Scandale, admiring the light beams scanning across the face of High Pike (656 m/2,152 ft).
Heading back down the higher eastern side of the Scandale valley, I equipped my 70–210mm lens for some tight and distant compositions. Fully zoomed in, I was able to pick out the mist clearing from the summits of the Langdale Pikes, on the right, and Bowfell on the left.
My 70–210mm also has a macro mode, which I used to try and capture these beautiful and tiny Cladonia pyxidata lichen.
Lake District sheep get all the best views.
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Stockghyll, Lake District, Summer
Lots of rain means one thing: waterfalls.
Loads of rain means one thing: waterfalls.
Though certainly not as numerous or epic as in the Yorkshire Dales, the Lake District is still home to some lovely waterfalls.
Certainly one of the more accessible, yet grand, waterfalls is Stockghyll Force in Ambleside. We last hiked around here in June 2020, just as the UK’s COVID-19 lockdown was starting to ease off. Ambleside, usually one of the busiest honeypots in all the Lake District, was eerily quiet on that visit.
Things were very much back to normal this time. Lots of people about, sipping pints in pubs, chatting over coffee and cake with friends, and hiking in and around the town.
And all the rain we’ve had in July has meant that Stockghyll Force should be in full flow. Boy did she look good.
All photos taken on my Sony α7ii using my Sony FE 28–70mm f3.5–5.6 OSS zoom lens. RAW files were corrected in Lightroom, developed using RNI Films’ Kodachrome film profiles, and finalised again in Lightroom.
Stockghyll Force, Lake District, Summer by Ian Cylkowski is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
From the car park opposite the Log House, we elected for the back roads towards the waterfall, rather than trekking alongside the main road. It gave us lovely, almost timeless, scenes like this.
Soon enough we exited the town centre, hiked up the road alongside the beck, and head into the woodland surrounding the waterfall. A lovely little weir, bathed in sunlight, made for a nice composition.
Further into the woods, a small beck flows underneath this delightful little bridge.
At the main waterfall itself, I perched myself and the tripod gingerly on a crag above the main drop, seeking a composition looking all the way down the falls to the gorge below.
The upper part of Stockghyll Force, surrounded by jagged, mossy crags and lush verdant vegetation everywhere.
After leaving one side of the trail, we took a lunch break at a new cafe that’s recently opened not 30 m away from the waterfall. Force Cafe. Delicious food and drink, and absolutely stunning views from their open terrace.
Heading back down the other side of the trail, the classic view of Stockghyll Force emerges and I cannot resist.
However, just a little further down the trail, I think the best view of Stockghyll Force can be obtained.
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Stock Ghyll Force, Lake District, Summer
We’re doing lots of rain dodging at the moment.
We’re doing lots of rain dodging at the moment.
But that’s OK, because lots of rain means thunderous waterfalls.
Lisabet and I decided to head straight out after work for a hike around Stock Ghyll Force in Ambleside, before the rain arrived. We timed it well. Five minutes after getting back in the car to head home, the heavens opened and our car was washed.
Stocky Ghyll begins life where Kirkstone Pass meets The Struggle. It’s here that Snow Cove Gill and Grove Gill combine below Kirkstone Pass and head southwest towards Ambleside. Just outside the town Stock Ghyll splits into two (or three, if it’s been raining heavily), drops 70ft down Stock Ghyll Force and merges together again at the bottom of the falls before draining into Ambleside.
Photos shot on a Fujifilm X-T2 with a 16–50mm f/3.5–5.6 lens using a customised Velvia film simulation.
Stock Ghyll Lane, the road towards the falls, with some lovely soft light.
The day was wonderfully overcast, lending some beautiful pockets of highlighting at various points in the ravine of Stock Ghyll Force.
The upper part of Stock Ghyll Force. This composition was made from 5 shots at 16mm (24mm full-frame equivalent), stitched together from top to bottom.
Just above the falls Stock Ghyll cuts a deep groove before dropping 70ft as Stock Ghyll Force. My lovely Lisabet providing a sense of scale here.
One of the more popular and accessible views of Stock Ghyll Force. It’s classical profile is in view here, showing two falls becoming one, but after enough rain there’s usually a 3rd waterfall to the left. You can just make out its trickle here.
A less-visited view of Stock Ghyll Force, with some soft light breaking through the canopy.
Going For A Paddle
For years I’ve wanted to get myself a solid pair of wellies for wading into rivers and plunge pools. I’ve often felt my river and waterfall compositions have been lacking because I’ve never really been able to just get into the water for more intimate angles.
A few weeks ago, my Dad surprised me with a set of adjustable waterproof wellies. Today, I got to try them on for wandering around Stock Ghyll Force in Ambleside. It was such an exhilarating experience! Now I could finally waltz into the river and get the angles I never could before.
See more beautiful photos of the Lake District, England.
Camera: Fujifilm X-T2
Lens: Samyang 12mm ƒ/2.0 NCS CS
ISO: 100
Aperture: ƒ/22.0
Shutter speed: 1.5secs
Software: Capture One, Nik Collection, Affinity Photo